Found A 1969 - What to Look For?

[Wayne]

Thanks donzie
I'll give that a try. All new rubbers for this old girl will be on the shopping list.

[Steve Swan]

To loosen and free the very worst of rusted parts I swear by Aero Kroil penetrant by Kano Laboratories - http://www.kanolabs.com/

Aero Kroil penetrant is a tremendous aid to liberating galded and seized parts.

Ask Allan Landry what he thinks of Aero Kroil.

Silicone spray might be worth a try in removing side covers.

Wayne, always try sourcing through Honda before paying excessive prices on ebay or elsewhere. I have been recently able to obtain most any engine and chassis parts, exluding such items as gauges, fenders, tanks, etc. Items such as new side cover grommets, no problem.

Looking at your sandcast webpage, picture appears your petcock is the early short neck. As far as we have been able to observe, the last frame vin for the short neck petcock is 1937.

It's interesting, your tank is the 17 litre later type........ Interesting, because if Steve Frampton sees this and can jump in, if i remember correctly, his #745 has a 19 litre tank on it.

[Wayne]

I'll see if I can get some Aerol Kroil, thanks Steve.

I made the same observations on the tank as well Steve. It does have the early Fuel Tap, but a later tank. When we took the tank off prior to moving the bike he even commented how it was the original red underneath. He said they didn't even remove the tank when they painted it. That was evident. The same with the headlight pot. There is overspary all over the front. (it may have preserved some of the lower brake line fittings as they are covered!)

It aslo has early 2 hole Air Box
Early straight fitting front brake line
No fill line in Master Cylinder
Horizontal cut rear brake lever

The list goes on.

It does not have the "28" Carb's on it. Is it possible that if 748 was taken for a Carb recall that Honda would have changed the tank as well? I know there were throttle cable troubles with this unit early in life. Even now it is broken.

The oil filter housing has 7 cooling fins. It has a 12 MM bolt head. I'm assuming from that that either someone cracked the originial and replaced it or Honda performed the Honda Service Bulletin CB750 #13 when the bike was in for service. I'ts stuck so I couldn't get it off for inside pictures. I'll try again after a good soaking.

I'll keep posting pictures as time permits. As well, I'm going to see if I can getin touch with the original owner and see what he remembers about the early days of this bike. My friend said until he re-located about 8 years ago the original exhaust was hanging in his garage before he moved! He put the Jardine headers on almost as soon as he purchased the bike.

Thanks for the parts tip Steve. I have already forewarned the parts person I know at the local Honda/Harley dealer that I would be driving them crazy with this bike! I do intend to buy what I can from Honda.

I put a couple of local ad's out in the event that there might be some "jewels" in my area. Received a couple of responses on some NOS items. They just have to get back to me with numbers. I guess the next thing is, I need a parts manual so I can validate before I buy.

[Bickle]

Hi....I had mentioned to you Steve, at the VMD, that the 19 litre was actually on 325...not 745. 745 had no tank with it.

Steve

[vnz00]

Hi Wayne, the tank looks to be the correct original one - according to KP, if the short neck fuel tap is used on the tank, the area where the tap bolts onto is actually more pronounced than later 17litre tanks. Normally that shouldered area has no pronounced shoulder or step where it blends into the front of the tank. Wayne, your tank has a pronounced shoulder towards the front of the tank. Mine is the same - short tap, shouldered area (VIN 1927). I think it would be easier to see what I mean in the photo on the website comparing the 17l and 19l fuel tanks....

Regards, Steven V.

[kp]

Hi Wayne, the tank looks to be the correct original one - according to KP, if the short neck fuel tap is used on the tank, the area where the tap bolts onto is actually more pronounced than later 17litre tanks. Normally that shouldered area has no pronounced shoulder or step where it blends into the front of the tank. Wayne, your tank has a pronounced shoulder towards the front of the tank. Mine is the same - short tap, shouldered area (VIN 1927). I think it would be easier to see what I mean in the photo on the website comparing the 17l and 19l fuel tanks....

Regards, Steven V.

Steve V is correct. The tank you have is the 2nd generation wrinkle tank and has the correct petcock as well. The earlier 19 litre tanks were superseded at VIN 746. See Steve (Rivers) Swan's post
http://sandcast4363.proboards.com/index.....play&thread=308  KP

[Steve Swan]

Steve Swan's memory is not like a steel trap. Most of what i write on the website, i believe to be 99.9% accurate, i try to not write crap. The other 0.1% i am wrong.

Much of what i wrote in "86 Distinctions" came either from some bike i observed, had written down, the website or my memory of what i someone told me, case in point, please read the next sentence........

Please note Steve Frampton's above post gently reminding me it IS #325 which came with a 19 litre tank - 745 came with NO tank !!!!

I had written "86 Distinctions" for something to be handed out at VMD and was feeling somewhat certain from a conversation 3-4 years prior with Steve F, his 745 came with a 19 litre, which is not the case. I forgot what he told me, 325 HAS the 19.

[Wayne]

I think as I identify a part as being "correct"or "incorrect" I will put a list on the web site for 748. It will help to clearly see where I stand as I start down the road with this project.

So, it looks like the concesus is that it has the correct fuel tank and Fuel Tap.
I would aslo say based on the pic's of Sandcast Gas Caps that the cap on 748 is also correct.

[Steve Swan]

Wayne,

Thanks so very much for your enthusiasm for the machine and your fastidious manner of notation.

Really is kind of an archeological dig of sorts !

Your website is great. Keep up the good work.

[Wayne]

Thanks Steve
I will continue to post images and ask questions right through to tear down time and re-assembly.

In looking at the rear fender, it has two mounting holes, the wiring pass through holes and then 3 holes around the bottom that appear to be for a mud guard. They look stamped rather than drilled. Should they be there? The fender looks salvageable otherwise.

Here's a link to the pic:

http://1969cb750sandcast.com/images/rear_fender_view.jpg

[hondasan]

The tank fitted, and "short" gas tap are identical to those fitted to my #1120 (raised pad underneath for the short tap, four indents corresponding to the carb tops, 17 liter, etc). I would suggest this to be definately correct / original.

The three holes around the lower of the rear fender - the centre one is for the cone plug (a rubber stop intended to cushion / support the lower of a license plate). The two side ones I have never seen before on a sandcast and wopuld suggest them to be non-factory additions.

Nice find, and great pre-teardown approach to the job.

[Wayne]

Thanks hondasan
The rest of the rear fender is in great shape. Hopefully we can neatly close those side holes up and let the chromer work his magic. Is what I have the "3 hole" rear fender I have seen others refer to?

I felt with the web site it would at least let me get intimate with this project prior to any major wrenching on it. Hopefully the documentation wil help others and perhaps clear up a few gray areas that may exist in the "sandcast" world. For me that would be as rewarding as the finished project.

If anyone has a period correct parts manual they could zerox for me it would be much appreciated. Just let me know what your time, paper, effort and postage is worth and send me a message.

[hondasan]

I guess it could be described as a "3 hole" fender as opposed to the later K1 type "4 hole" fender.
Sandcast has just two fixing screws for the lamp bracket to fender, the third hole being for the lamp wires to pass through, and will have a rectangulat re-inforcing piece spot welded inside the fender with two "captive" nuts.
The K1 uses three fixing screws, + hole for wires (hence 4-hole) and has a triangular re-inforcing piece inside the fender - and of correspondingly different lamp bracket and rubber cushion.

Chris R.

[Wayne]

Thanks Chris
Mine does indeed have two mounting holes and a third for the wiring. It looks like there is a fourth hole in my pictures but that is just a shiny chrome area where there was a recess in the rubber gasket.

So, it looks like I have a "correct" rear fender in need of some minor repair before chroming!

[kp]

Yes, the mudguard (fender to you uneducated rabble )  looks correct KP