Home Zinc Cad Plating Kits

[Wayne]

Has anyone had any experience with home plating kits for Zinc and Cad? I have not only my sandy but another project that is going to need some plating and thought this may not only be a bit more cost effective but as well make it easier for me to keep things organized. I guess another plus might be that I can do some small items for friends in the future.

http://www.caswellplating.com/kits/zinc.htm

[kp]

Wayne, I've used a home plating kit for years now and they are great for when you want to plate those small or large items but they are slow going if you have a lot to plate. My own view is that they are not cost effective if you have a large lot to do. If you were to say want to plate every zinc plated item on a sandcast I would be sending it to a plating shop as the finish is generally better, it's cheaper in the long run and a way lot easier. Having said that though, I wouldn't be without my kit for those time you want to do a few items that have gone off or whatever
Mine is a Jane kit but you have Caswells in the US and I would imagine they are the same deal KP

[CB750faces.com (Lecram)]

I don't know what you pay in the US for zinc plating, but I paid 65 euros for zinc plating all zinced parts for my K0 in Holland. And it saves you a lot of time.

[Steve Swan]

I use a zinc plater in Denver, the cost for zinc plating every part on a sandcast restoration is under $200. 

The result is always excellent, all the parts are plated in one batch.  The finished appearance of all the parts is the same and it is not time consuming, plating a few parts at a time.  By the time one purchases the equipment and materials to set up for plating, the cost of doing so will match or exceed the cost to have the parts sent out.

The zinc plater I've used, has never lost a single part.  When I say every part on a restoration, that includes all the tiny parts, such as the carb parts.

Just my 2 cents worth.

[Wayne]

If the consistency isn't that great with the home kits I won't use it for the sandcast. I just figured since I have to do the sandy, my Triumph and probably some friends stuff over the winter it might be worth while. I think we have a place right in town that our military base uses for their Zinc, CAD etc. I'll double check with my freind on the base who runs the refinishing shop. Maybe I can get my stuff done compliments of the Canadian taxpayers! hehe 

As always, thanks for the input gang.

[kp]

Wayne
One thing the kits are good for is plating parts attached to rubber such as brake lines and rubber straps. Most shops don't like rubber in their solution because over time it does contaminate the mixture so a home kit does come in handy. KP

[Steve Swan]

You make a VERY good point, KP !

[Wayne]

Well that's a good sell KP as my lower hoses are in excellent condition. I say plural as I have a dual disc setup that I might restore. The original short fitting hose as well as the later hose are both very useable. I was wondering how I would refurbish them. Now I know.

[kp]

Plating the brake hose ends is not the issue it's getting the old plating off the end. Wire brush is a little harsh on rubber so the cleaning solutions for rust removal works without damaging the rubber.
I also do rubber parts separately by using a small container with just enough solution to get the zinc lug and part covered, that way the solution can be discarded once it starts going off. KP

[ashimotok0]

I am having great results with Zinc plating ,as it is,  or passivated blue or yellow. I bought the chemicals only from Gateros plating. Can't recommend them enough Ask for Dan or Julie and tell them I recommended them.

They even did half quantities for me. Its great having a small plating bath if you are renovating carb parts, electrical bits etc (eg regulator/start switch etc)

In the UK unfortunately but far cheaper and friendly than the big boys.

http://www.gaterosplating.co.uk/

Cheers

Ash

[ashimotok0]

Here are some parts I just bright zinc  plated. (then some were yellow chromate passivated as they were originally) Don't forget this was a UK Bike which was definitely a 'rider' for many years in grotty UK weather. All of these parts are original but painstakingly restored by me but apart from the plating chemicals and elbow grease abrasives, a few connectors and time!!!!!!!!! did not cost me anything. I only did the hose though because it had been replaced at some time and deemed safe to use. I also re-furbed the insides of the electrical parts (another story)

Here is the tip on plating the hose. Bind loads of electrical tape around the rubber, about 3 inches up from the banjo metal fittings. Use a combination of rubber washers and nuts and bolts to blank off the banjo holes. Test for tightness by immersing in really hot water and look for bubbles. If it bubbles then you must seal it properly. Dip in HCL ('brick acid' will do) for about 5 minutes to remove all of the old zinc plating. When the fizzing stops- remove immediately from acid and rinse and rinse in hot water. Wrap some copper from a copper heating pipe around the rubber hose to protect it whilst polishing (leave the tape on)  Polish with fine wire wool and buff with a dremel tool. If it's badly pitted, then I would trash it - its not worth saving it. When it is bright and shiny, degrease with solvent (I use isopropanol). Then dry. Then dip in strong caustic soda to further degrease (ten minutes). Rinse well in hot water. Dip in HCL again for about 1 minute. Rinse again in hot water.Carefully remove the bolts from the banjo holes without trying to handle the metal part. Now fill these holes with hot melt adhesive. Pare adhesive off with a craft knife so adhesive is flush with the surface and none left on the outside of edge to be plated.. It is imperative that you don't touch the parts with your skin and leave greasy marks. Tape the hose together as shown in the photo and trap the cathode wires against the edge of the metal parts. Suspend the hose from the top of the 'U' shape. Plate for 45 minutes at around 300mA in BZP. Make sure that only the metal and the first 1/2 inch of hose are immersed in the electrolyte. Rearrange cathode wires half way through to plate any points of wire contact. Rinse thoroughly then Blue passivate if you want that finish (it also gives improved corrosion protection). The regulator case is not dinted- it's just a reflection.

Hope this helps Wayne

BTW - anyone know if this rear wheel rim as fitted to my K0 is the rounded edge one (it had a 4-hole hub though)

cheers

Ash

[Wayne]

Ash
Thank you so much for the detailed information. I think what I'll do when I get my kit is to do some practice runs on some parts I have laying around. I have some hoses and banjo's etc from other bikes. We'll see what I can do with them. I'll post my results when I get my kit. Thanks again!

[kp]

BTW - anyone know if this rear wheel rim as fitted to my K0 is the rounded edge one (it had a 4-hole hub though)

cheers

Ash

Yep, looks correct They are pigs to photograph KP

[kp]

Here are some parts I just bright zinc  plated. (then some were yellow chromate passivated as they were originally) Don't forget this was a UK Bike which was definitely a 'rider' for many years in grotty UK weather. All of these parts are original but painstakingly restored by me but apart from the plating chemicals and elbow grease abrasives, a few connectors and time!!!!!!!!! did not cost me anything. I only did the hose though because it had been replaced at some time and deemed safe to use. I also re-furbed the insides of the electrical parts (another story)

Here is the tip on plating the hose. Bind loads of electrical tape around the rubber, about 3 inches up from the banjo metal fittings. Use a combination of rubber washers and nuts and bolts to blank off the banjo holes. Test for tightness by immersing in really hot water and look for bubbles. If it bubbles then you must seal it properly. Dip in HCL ('brick acid' will do) for about 5 minutes to remove all of the old zinc plating. When the fizzing stops- remove immediately from acid and rinse and rinse in hot water. Wrap some copper from a copper heating pipe around the rubber hose to protect it whilst polishing (leave the tape on)  Polish with fine wire wool and buff with a dremel tool. If it's badly pitted, then I would trash it - its not worth saving it. When it is bright and shiny, degrease with solvent (I use isopropanol). Then dry. Then dip in strong caustic soda to further degrease (ten minutes). Rinse well in hot water. Dip in HCL again for about 1 minute. Rinse again in hot water.Carefully remove the bolts from the banjo holes without trying to handle the metal part.

Fellas, HCL does not generally affect brake hoses or rubber and having plated dozens of items over the years I don't see the need to go to that extent. It's just not necessary. Using a mild solution of HCL will clean the zinc off most metal. A buff, degrease, soapy detergent wash and final water rinse is about all that's needed to clean most items ready for plating. Sure you need to up the concentration a tad and extend the time for hard to shift stuff but a buff wheel will usually suffice. I use a metal cover over brake hose if I use a wire wheel and this gives a really nice finish and acid is generally used sparingly. Acid will pit metal really easily if too strong and left too long. KP

[ashimotok0]

BTW - anyone know if this rear wheel rim as fitted to my K0 is the rounded edge one (it had a 4-hole hub though)

cheers

Ash

Yep, looks correct They are pigs to photograph KP

Thanks KP - can anyone else confirm it as ChrisR was unsure - he says all early rims including some K2's are rounded to some extent.

Cheers

Ash