Honda CB750 Sandcast

1969 Diecast/ K0 restoration

UK Pete · 135 · 78140

UK Pete

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Yes i was looking back through other peoples posts on this matter earlier today when i see yours , i think mine is still salvageable, but yours looks past the point of return Wayne, did you manage to find a replacement ?
Pete


Wayne

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Sure did Pete. Steve Swan came through for me. :)
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UK Pete

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Thanks Steve, it has been slow moving of recent months but i am now starting to get enthusiastic again especially as i have a set of no number exhausts on order and the paint work all done, still leaves me with the engine to do, i might now  use my original head, but am still searching for barrels, i have a k1 head and barrels which at a glance looks the same, but if you look up close at the front you can see a small difference where there is the extra front bolt,
Here are the pictures of my spare drive flange, from the outside this looks perfect, however it was damaged behind where the rubbers go two big chunks missing, so i got it welded up and i have roughly shaped it with a file, i dont think it will cause any issues if i use this now its repaired









UK Pete

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Here is the welded Flange flatened off with various grades of wet and dry , then satin polished , just need to clear coat it now, i think that the satin polish finish topped with clear coat will be as near as i can get to original finish, i say this because this flange had part of its surface area where the clear coat was still on it, i removed this to reveal what i regard as a satin finish, the clear coat should gloss it up to be like a factory finish, however if it does not i will strip it back and polish it as i like the polished look as well, just means more maintenance



« Last Edit: August 26, 2013, 01:43:24 am by UK Pete »


UK Pete

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Hi can any one tell me if my K0 should have the rear sprocket sheild as standard fitment.and also should i have the 45 tooth rear sprocket?
Thanks in advance pete


hondasan

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45T rear sprocket was standard until the end of K0 production (according to parts lists), sprocket shield NOT fitted until into 1970 at VIN 1026845 or so.

Cheers - Chris R.
Chris R.
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UK Pete

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Hi all i am still gathering the parts for my rear wheel rebuild,  i have what i think is a rolled rim which is correct for my bike but its in poor condition, my questions are firstly can someone confirm my rim is rolled, and second look at the rust pitting ,is it worth the money to get it restored then chromed, i was thinking of grinding down the two worst rust spots then build it up with weld and resurface those areas ready to be rechromed






Steve Swan

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is the bead perfectly round ?  if so, correct for sandcast.

if the bead starts round then slightly flattens, rim's late "ko"/early k1. 

no matter how good the pictures, these later rims are sometimes difficult to tell. 

without actually seeing it, it looks like a later rim; bead appears to have a bit of a flat face.

the angle leading to the lateral face of the bead is less acute on these late "ko" rims, much less acute than the even later k1-onward rims which have a very obvious flat lateral face because the angle leading to the lateral face is even more acute and the lateral face is even more flat.


UK Pete

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Thanks for the reply steve, there must be at least 5 types of rim i have 4 different types, i have this one from an early69 k0, a nos one for a k1 with slightly less rounded with the DID logo, my F1 rear rim with the DID logo but distinctly flat, and then the later ones with the writing on the outside edge, so the sandcast ones make it 5
when you say perfectly rounded do you mean round from the the bit where the tyre seats right round to the flat of the rim?
pete


Steve Swan

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when you say perfectly rounded do you mean round from the the bit where the tyre seats right round to the flat of the rim?pete

yes, round all the way around.  no part of the bead is flat or even remotely appearing flat.

compare the subject of our discussion to your nos k1 rim.  the beads may or may not be the same.  likely not.  later k1's had the even more flat faced bead than the early k1's/late ko's. and as you said, somewhere in the years, maybe as early as k2's the bead faces got really really flat.  k5/6's for sure were very flat.

i know someone who stared hard at pictures of ko wheels on ebay on at least 2 separate occasions, gambling they were round bead...... upon sad receipt, hope was dashed.  alas and alack.   :)


UK Pete

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Thanks thats good info, i needed to know weather to restore it or not,  i might as well use my NOS rim and save myself some money, now i best read up on how to build a wheel and start assembleing


UK Pete

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Whooooo hoooooo, i have finaly got myself a 1969 early K0 top end, i had to buy a complete 69 K0 engine to get it, the engine i bought is complete and has good compression it would not surprise me if it is a runner with a bit of work, be a shame to take it apart but i have searched for a 1969 top end for a year now, this is just what i need to get myself motivated on this build again, pictures to follow
pete


ashimotok0

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Bet that is a December '69 motor  ;D Pete  ! Great that you found one.
Cheers.... AshD