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Links to Auctions and Classifieds / 1970 CB750 K0 ?
« on: February 28, 2021, 03:10:30 pm »
Just listed on eBay
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1970-Honda-CB/333904996435?hash=item4dbe49e853:g:L~IAAOSwhWZgO-ck
Seller says it is a K0, frame number confirms (?) it is not a Sandy.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1970-Honda-CB/333904996435?hash=item4dbe49e853:g:L~IAAOSwhWZgO-ck
Seller says it is a K0, frame number confirms (?) it is not a Sandy.
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Paint - Badges and Component Refinishing / Finished Airbox and "Bubble Print"
« on: February 22, 2021, 01:43:05 pm »
Attached pic shows one area of a recently painted SC airbox. The work was done by Blake Conway and I think it looks good. Problem is it has been stored in bubble wrap, which has left a "bubble print". I tried a little Plexus and a microfiber cloth with no results.
The print seems to be raised to the touch, so it may be a very thin layer of plastic. Question is how to remove. Heat gun? All suggestions/comments welcome.
The print seems to be raised to the touch, so it may be a very thin layer of plastic. Question is how to remove. Heat gun? All suggestions/comments welcome.
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VIN's / 2659/E2839
« on: February 21, 2021, 03:45:56 pm »
I think there is an ongoing effort to update the VIN directory with current and/or correct information. I just checked it and 2659/E2839 is still showing the previous owner. Being the current and correct owner, I was wondering who would be handling the updates?
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Links to Auctions and Classifieds / FR 3237 on EBAY
« on: June 26, 2020, 10:35:25 pm »
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1969-Honda-CB/203032112002?hash=item2f45a82b82:g:a04AAOSwphFe9czz
It's in the directory, but shows no information.
It's in the directory, but shows no information.
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Fuel (gas - petrol) Tanks, Side Covers and Air Box / Carb Fuel T's.
« on: January 14, 2020, 08:56:59 pm »
Not sure this is the correct place for this question, but I think it applies to sandcast through K2 carbs.
I bought a set of 7A carbs supposedly taken off a 71 CB750K1. While going through them, found some discrepancies. First attached pic shows the fuel splitter T's from the 7A (1971) carbs. One T takes two o-rings and one takes four, but both have 5 mm ID. CMSNL schematic shows two o-rings per T up to K3. Parts book for 1969 shows same.
Second pic shows T's from 7A on the left, and the T from 064A carbs (1973) on the right. Again, the ID of the 7A is 5 mm, but the 064A ID is 4 mm.
I've read that the earlier (up to K2) 750's were faster than the later (K3 on), and that Honda learned and made adjustments. So I'm thinking Honda reduced the ID on the later bikes and added two more orings to reduce leaks?
My question is which is correct for the 7A - two or four o-rings per T? More importantly, is 5 mm ID correct for the 7A? What would be the effects if I use T's with a 4 mm ID?
I bought a set of 7A carbs supposedly taken off a 71 CB750K1. While going through them, found some discrepancies. First attached pic shows the fuel splitter T's from the 7A (1971) carbs. One T takes two o-rings and one takes four, but both have 5 mm ID. CMSNL schematic shows two o-rings per T up to K3. Parts book for 1969 shows same.
Second pic shows T's from 7A on the left, and the T from 064A carbs (1973) on the right. Again, the ID of the 7A is 5 mm, but the 064A ID is 4 mm.
I've read that the earlier (up to K2) 750's were faster than the later (K3 on), and that Honda learned and made adjustments. So I'm thinking Honda reduced the ID on the later bikes and added two more orings to reduce leaks?
My question is which is correct for the 7A - two or four o-rings per T? More importantly, is 5 mm ID correct for the 7A? What would be the effects if I use T's with a 4 mm ID?
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Wheels - Hubs - Spokes - Tires / Rear Wheel Chain Adjuster Blocks Question
« on: March 08, 2019, 05:28:52 pm »
Attached pics show two seemingly different types chain adjuster blocks. The left pair have a rough "sandcast" finish and the right pair have a smoother finish. One other notable difference is the back of the blocks, where the left pair have a continuous arc and the right pair have three flats. Is one correct for the sandcasts (this one is 2659) and one is not; or were they both used on SC bikes?
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Fuel (gas - petrol) Tanks, Side Covers and Air Box / Early Airbox Gasket?
« on: February 21, 2019, 07:19:47 pm »
Did the two-hole-with-indent airbox have a gasket between the upper and lower halves? I ask because there are parts diagrams showing a gasket, either item 11 or 12 depending on the source, but no part numbers are listed. I have an April 1, 1969 CB750 parts book that does not show any gasket at all.
Could not find any reference to such a gasket in "distinctions" or the "Fuel Tank, Side Cover, Airbox" category.
Thanks
John
Could not find any reference to such a gasket in "distinctions" or the "Fuel Tank, Side Cover, Airbox" category.
Thanks
John
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Links to Auctions and Classifieds / New Sandcast Listing - 5223
« on: February 13, 2019, 12:07:30 am »
Seller states it's a Vic World restoration.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1969-Honda-CB750K0/123643225636?hash=item1cc9b5e624:g:YaoAAOSwaEZcY26B&vxp=mtr
John
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1969-Honda-CB750K0/123643225636?hash=item1cc9b5e624:g:YaoAAOSwaEZcY26B&vxp=mtr
John
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Gauges - Levers and Cables / Reproduction gauges
« on: January 21, 2019, 03:38:08 pm »
Attached pics show face and drive of what has been described as a reproduced Honda type. This unit came on 2659, which was restored in 2005. As a reproduction, it doesn't seem to match any of Honda's original gauge designs - it has the face of a K0 or K1, but the drive of a K2 or later. So I'm assuming it was just a cheap approach to selling replacement gauges? Feedback appreciated. ThNks
John
John
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Fuel (gas - petrol) Tanks, Side Covers and Air Box / 2659 Airbox Reshaping
« on: November 04, 2018, 05:25:05 pm »
One of the reasons I bought a sandcast was to learn about more about the CB750. 2659 has not disappointed. After getting the bike last May, I've discovered some surprising and not-so-surprising issues. Yesterday I pulled out the airbox, which when mounted showed a crack on cyl 1 end and a crack across the bottom between the two wing nuts. Disassembling it on the bench it now shows much more: there's a horizontal crack between cyl's 2 and 3, 3 and 4: the upper section is warped, squashed a bit on the side of cyl 1; the plastic intake tube face is a bit concave on the cyl 1 end; and the center section of the airbox is also warped on the cyl 1 end. Not sure what caused the warpage, but my first thought is too much heat...…..but heat from what? a frequent backfire? why on the cyl 1 end only? Maybe the cracks may have been caused by assembling warped components. Also, the rubber intake tubes are all very supple, except the cyl 1 and cyl 2 tubes have a hardened edge on one side of the tube only.
To repair the damage, I'm thinking heat gun, but would this produce enough heat to reshape the warped areas? What approach should be used to minimize the probability of causing further damage? Any ideas for a "form" or "jig" to aid in the reshaping?
Any help and guidance would be appreciated.
John
To repair the damage, I'm thinking heat gun, but would this produce enough heat to reshape the warped areas? What approach should be used to minimize the probability of causing further damage? Any ideas for a "form" or "jig" to aid in the reshaping?
Any help and guidance would be appreciated.
John
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Chrome - Anodizing and Other Metal Finish Procedures / Stripped and Polished MC Components
« on: October 26, 2018, 06:11:49 pm »
In trying to follow the steps to get three master cylinders stripped, polished and then black chromic anodized, I got these items back from the shop today. Attached pics show two MC's, two handlebar clamps (front and back), a MC cap showing some lines left by the polishing, and a gauge bottom cover that has been rechromed. This is my first ever effort. My questions are:
- Is the quality of the stripping and polishing good enough to send them to be anodized? Please be as objectively critical as you need to be. I'm prepared to have them redone at another shop if necessary.
- Should the inside of the MC's and the handlebar clamps also been done?
- Is the rechroming of the gauge cover par, or should the rough areas around the circumference also have been made smooth before rechroming? The shop said it would have destroyed the metal if they tried to smooth in the grove.
I look forward to any and all feedback. Thanks
- Is the quality of the stripping and polishing good enough to send them to be anodized? Please be as objectively critical as you need to be. I'm prepared to have them redone at another shop if necessary.
- Should the inside of the MC's and the handlebar clamps also been done?
- Is the rechroming of the gauge cover par, or should the rough areas around the circumference also have been made smooth before rechroming? The shop said it would have destroyed the metal if they tried to smooth in the grove.
I look forward to any and all feedback. Thanks
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Fuel (gas - petrol) Tanks, Side Covers and Air Box / Stripping and Repairing Two Hole Airbox
« on: October 19, 2018, 07:18:45 pm »
Attached are pics of a newly acquired, silver-painted and fractured airbox. To repair the fractures, I thought to try crazy glue or model airplane cement. Then I found a previous post (authored by Steve Swan), who suggested a product called Fusor 143. As you can imagine, the plastic has become very brittle, so I'm wondering if after being repaired and repainted, the airbox might crack again when used on the bike. I think some members put repro or newer boxes on and keep the "good stuff" stored.
The goal is to repair the airbox, strip the silver paint off, and at some point get it professionally repainted. I would ask for feedback of the best repair product and/or procedure. Also, can it be used on the bike or is it too fragile?
One other question concerns the rubber velocity stacks: can the silver paint be stripped and the rubber given a new life? Thanks in advance.
John
The goal is to repair the airbox, strip the silver paint off, and at some point get it professionally repainted. I would ask for feedback of the best repair product and/or procedure. Also, can it be used on the bike or is it too fragile?
One other question concerns the rubber velocity stacks: can the silver paint be stripped and the rubber given a new life? Thanks in advance.
John
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