Can you give a link to the listing please.

Chris R.

I started using DOT 5 silicon fluid about 30 years ago after a CBX master cylinder leaked onto its fuel tank and stripped the paint. The reason for using it at the time was primarily to avoid further paint work mishaps as silicon is safe against paintwork. The added benefit is that it does not absorb moisture hence solves the problem of corrosion of brake system components. ALL of my Honda's have this fluid in them now.
My rider sandcast was re-built for the second time a couple of years ago, just over 100,000 miles / 25 years after the first rebuild. DOT 5 silicon had been in it for all those miles / years and the brake system was spotless inside.
I have been told that silicon fluids are not recommended for more modern vehicles with ABS systems - not something I wish to comment on!

Just my experiences - Chris R.

Just had a look at some buckets that were to hand....
 Candy red, original to 1015286, no number, 41 x 35mm hole
 Candy Gold, unknown origin, no number, 41 x 35mm hole
 Black, original to K2, 2000613, no number, 41 x 35mm hole
Black, unknown origin, number 2, 47 x 40mm hole

Chris R.

My recollection was that I had only ever noticed the black switches to have "clear" bright zinc, and the red switches to have the yellow passivate finish.
So, I just looked at my NOS switches which appear to confirm the red switches to have a distinct yellow/gold appearance to the zinc.
However, the one NOS black switch I have has a definite light yellow tint to it, though much less so than the NOS red switch. This switch is of course in very old packaging and has been stored hidden away in a box for the last 25 years that I know of. Suggests to me that black finish switches may not all of been clear (ie bright silver) zinc. Or maybe the originals I have that appear to be just clear zinc were originally slightly yellow in appearance and have age faded. Personally I think I would choose to go for clear zinc rather than yellow if I were to restore an old switch.
Anyone got any good detail pictures of a VW restoration to check out?

Chris R.

I have both a very late K1 (1111383), and a very early K2 (2000613) - the K1 has the earlier "K0" type and the K2 the later rounded end type. The change occurred when the brake pedal gained its own height adjustable frame stop, a feature of the "new" K2 model.

Cheers - Chris

A bit of a longshot, but I would like to find frame  with VIN somewhere near to engine 10005715, so within a couple of hundred numbers either way  would be good.

Thanks all - Chris R.

Just had the same problem. The tank is from a CBX1000 that was lined when it was painted maybe 10 years back. I don’t know what the liner was, but it started to lift a couple of years back. Everyone wants to blame the ethanol we have in fuel these days, and maybe that is the reason, though I do wonder if inadequate preparation could well be the problem.
 I bought a UK product called “sealeater” which allegedly removes all tank liners….
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Fertan-Fuel-Tank-Sealant-Epoxy-Resin-Remover-1-Litre-SEALEATER/262495192437?epid=13008016677&hash=item3d1deec575:g:7mMAAOSwbYZXa-4o
In my case I wanted not to have to re-paint (and of course anything capable of removing epoxy tank liners will kill paintwork – even the vapour will damage paint). Half a day masking the tank using adhesive backed silver foil (similar to that used to seal double glazed window units here) and thick plastic sheet did the trick. I did use maybe 4 layers of plastic and probably 10 layers of adhesive foil around the filler neck and petcock spigot. So the sealeater was poured in and left for 24 hours, with the tank moved every hour or so to allow the liquid to cover the various areas on the inside of the tank. The cap was fitted and the petcock spigot plugged so that the vapour was contained within the tank.
When the tank was emptied, quite a lot of the old sealant came out in smallish pieces, but not all – especially on the center “hump” within the tank. The problem appears to be that you cannot immerse all of inside surfaces of the tank when you are using only 1 litre of sealeater (CBX tank is approx.. 20 litres capacity.
Maybe I needed to leave the sealeater in for longer, maybe I needed to buy several lots of sealeater.
I’m my case, my attempts to remove all of the old liner have not been successful so far, though the paint on the tank has survived undamaged. From what I can see, about 75% of the old liner is gone.
I will use a tank de-rusting solution next to remove surface rust from the mostly now visible metal areas inside the tank, sutface rust being the reason for the fitment of the liner previously.
I will probably re-fit the tank for next season and see if anymore sealant breaks free – previously the old liner came away in largish pieces, and the CBX does have a fine mesh filter inside the tank.
Not sure the above helps you Steve, just my experiences so far….
Chris R.

If I recall correctly, Tom Philips was a motorcycle racer back then, most likely competing at the 1969 Isle of Man TT.
The bike shown up in the air is the green pre-production bike at the 1969 Brighton show, never again seen or heard of? The Gold bike #2110 was at floor level at that show.

Chris R.