Honda CB750 Sandcast
General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: Mad Matt on August 07, 2010, 11:57:42 pm
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I know I don't post here much but I was just excited about finishing up my Sandcast #2. I restored a sandcast about 4 years ago, my first one. It was a basket case but the motor and frame came from the same bike and I have no reason to believe it's not an original matching numbers bike. I had to buy most everything else one piece at a time. I managed to get most of the correct parts for it. In these pics I had aftermarket air filters on it just because I wanted to ride it and not ruin my restored air box.
http://kewlmetalgallery.com/product_info.php?cPath=652&products_id=565&osCsid=5c3ef8cc3fce01ee44f3737131abd716 (http://kewlmetalgallery.com/product_info.php?cPath=652&products_id=565&osCsid=5c3ef8cc3fce01ee44f3737131abd716)
In my parts search for Sandcast #1 I managed to buy another frame (was a whole bike without sandcast motor) and then I managed to find a motor, Frame number CB750-1005184, Motor number CB750E1004942. I really could not believe I found a motor with the numbers within the correct range. Anyhow, it may not be an original but it's now a beautiful running sandcast that was just a bunch of scrap parts that were scattered over the cosmos. I still love it and I feel like Dr Frankenstein who created a new life!
I had assembled most of the bike almost 2 years ago and I have been waiting to come up with the $$ to finish it. But business has been slow and the play $$ needed has been tough to come by. I need the seat, pipes, instruments, plug key switch, paint job, and I am sure a few other things. The rest of the bike is as new so these items need to be as new as well. Anyhow, I got tired of waiting and decided to get her up and running just using whatever parts I have correct or not. I threw a plastic pan duckbill seat I have, and some kerker headers, and some instruments just to be functional. I just used a spare tank and headlight shell until I can get a whole painted set going (gonna do that real soon) . I did a whole bunch of videos of the final steps and I just wanted to share them here.
http://www.youtube.com/user/madmattsgarage (http://www.youtube.com/user/madmattsgarage)
Would love to hear comments or suggestions or whatever. I belong to the VJMC and have brought my sandcast #1 to some of the Phoenix, AZ gatherings and I have not seen any other sandcast's in AZ. I feel fortunate to have 2 of them, now both running!
Cheers,
Matt
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Matt, Great job and really nice finish on the alloy, frame and paint. Credit to you. Those other parts will come your way so I wouldn't worry. Thanks for sharing that with us
Cheers ............. KP
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Thanks KP. Everything is polished. I know it's not the original look, but It just looks so nice that way. I do have a really beat up wrinkle tank for it, and some decent side covers. I will be looking to finish the paint in the next few weeks.
Matt
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Matt:
Nice looking bike, excellent detail, as for the original parts your needing they will come along. I liked the video of the bike starting up in the garage it gave me flash backs from about a year ago when I was doing the same thing on my bike. Marty K.
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Glad you enjoyed it. Starting a motor for the first time, especially one re-built from a crusty old froze up motor....is one of those golden moments in life.
I re-jetted today to 135's and it's running sweeet!
Matt
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Hi Matt,
Your work looks great. I'm sure I'm looking at a lot of time and money. Great job.
I took a look at your 2nd Sandcast video. I have a few comments. You power coated the rear sprocket? Why? Also your rear sprocket has the shield installed on it. FYI, The rear sprocket shield did not start until serial # CB750-1026845 so it is not correct for your bike.
Best regards,
1941wld
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Thanks KP. Everything is polished. I know it's not the original look, but It just looks so nice that way. I do have a really beat up wrinkle tank for it, and some decent side covers. I will be looking to finish the paint in the next few weeks.
Matt
Matt
There is a wrinkle tank on Kijiji. A bit pricey but looks in pretty good shape.
http://toronto.kijiji.ca/c-cars-vehicles-motorcycles-motorcycle-parts-accessories-Very-Rare-Vintage-Honda-CB750-Wrinkle-Tank-W0QQAdIdZ219702804
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1941wld,
Thanks for the info on the sprocket shield. I was not sure about that one.
As far as the sprocket and the polishing, etc. I guess I am a little tired of restoring to stock when there are other things that look better finish wise. I sure like the look of the sprocket in black, especially when you want to ride the bike and it starts getting dirty.
Just personal choice. (and I have the eastwood powder coating system in my shop at home so it's easy for me and I get carried away sometimes!)
And I LOVE the over polished engine covers and wheel hubs. I know it's not original, but it looks great and it gets a load of compliments when I am riding around town. Fact is, nobody knows what a sandcast is anyhow so they just see it as a nicely restored early CB750, the more shiney it is, the more looks and compliments I get.
I am trying to keep the core of the bike original so it can easily be made original and correct by just swapping out some parts. But I am really enjoying the Kerker headers and I think I will be leaving those on it as long as I am riding it. If I took this bike to auction, I would probably put a set of original pipes on it.
Any and all comments are welcome, I like to hear what the other Sandcast guys think....
Matt
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Wayne,
Thanks for the heads up! I think my wrinkle tank is restorable, I am working on it now. Am working on getting the old sealer out of it, acetone is dissolving it and I am using a wire brush. a few more sessions with it and I think it will be pretty clean. It has quite a few small dents, but I think it will clean up fine with some good body filler and a sanding block.
I need to find a painter. There is an ad in VJMC magazine, Painting by Blake, anybody know him?
Matt
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I restored these using the Yamiya housings and face plates. They make nice stuff. Pricey, but with everything else on the bike looking brand new and showroom shiny, this is the only way I know of to make the instruments up to par.
(http://www.chromegarage.com/pics/matt/002/IMG_0903b.jpg)
Matt
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There are 2 extra special days in a restoration project. The first day you run it, and then when you have taken it on the shakedown rides and then finally take it on that ride you have been dreaming about. For me that is a ride to Jerome, AZ. It's about a 1 hour ride for me from Prescott and I love riding my Vintage bikes there. I did a little Video. My Wife did the videos with a GoPro cam and she was riding her Can-Am Spyder RT.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JOAWeFPSGg0 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JOAWeFPSGg0)
This was Video #10 in a series I did on finishing up this project. The rest of the videos are all on my youtube channel here:
http://www.youtube.com/user/madmattsgarage (http://www.youtube.com/user/madmattsgarage)
Hope you guys enjoy the videos!!!
Matt
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Mad Matt, Very nice! Great Job.
Best regards,
1941wld
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Well I am working on the paint. Step one for me was to get a PPG formula for the candy ruby red. My local PPG shop is great and they have always been very helpful. A few years ago, they helped me work out a PPG formula for the candy blue green that worked out pretty nice. Unfortunately, we did not write down the formula for the base we used, but at this point I am wanting to change it up a little and re-do it. The red is coming out really nice and this time I have it all written down so it can be re-produced. I would be happy to post it here should anybody want it and I will probably be posting it on the SOHC site just to share it with everyone, I like to make a contribution to these forums when I can since we all get so much useful info from them. Here is a pic of the test parts I have done so far, the fork ear is a NOS part I am using to color match to.
(http://www.madmattsgarage.com/pics/001/candy-ruby-red.jpg)
Matt
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Pretty damn good match Matt
KP
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Matt: very nice paint pieces, excellent looking color match. Marty K.
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Thanks guys. My pieces are very slightly darker and more red than the NOS part, but I am happy with it because I have some other after market painted parts that are more red and I just like the color better, especially out in the sunlight. The NOS has more gold tone showing through. The gold tone is actually the yellow in the candy over the silver base. The darkness in the red can be varied when you shoot it by going lighter on the candy layer. Candy is tough to shoot, but I am learning and to me that is a big part of the fun of restoring. Like I said, if anybody wants the PPG formula I used here, I am happy to share it.
My biggest problem now is dust and I am going to be making some sort of a garage paint booth setup so I can finish this set of skins. So far I have been painting outside.
Matt
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Matt please post paint formula
DONZIE
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PPG Paint Spec Honda Candy Ruby Red
BASE:
1 part DMD 1680 fine aluminum
1 part reducer
5% basecoat activator
CANDY:
1 part DMX 213 Blue Shade Red
2 parts DMX 212 Yellow Shade Red
6 parts DBC 500 Color Blend
10 parts reducer
1 part Basecoat Activator
The DMX is like color concentrate so you are mixing it with the color blend to create the "paint".
The color blend is clear.
The candy can be diluted even more with color blend and reducer and sprayed on thinner to create a lighter red. When you do this it does come out more yellow because there is alot of yellow in the DMX212.
Remember that the color really depends on the thickness of the candy layer so you have to experiment with this till you get a feel for it.
I am using a touch up gun because a full size gun is just too big to control on such small parts.
Feel free to ask me any questions !
Matt
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I should probably add this info also as the primer color can effect the final color.
The primer I used is GREY.
Xtreme 5425 high build direct to metal.
Xtreme 5426 Activator.
These are mixed 4:1.
The clear I am using is Deltron DC4000.
Matt