Honda CB750 Sandcast
Beginning to End - Member Restorations => Restoration of 1983 => Topic started by: Sgt.Pinback on May 18, 2016, 01:06:07 pm
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The other day I found # 1983 more or less by accident here in Germany.
An older man was offering parts on local eBay and when phoning with him I learned, he has a barn full of parts and bikes.
This particular bike was imported from the States in Feb. 1993 and not touched since then.
I got some pics from that SC resto bike via e-mail and after some difficult negotiations we agreed on a price.Before that I had some mails with Steve to get confirmation on the VIN and engine numbers to ensure, that everything is OK here.
Again, many thanks for your help, Steve.
So the bike finally is here and I started stripping here down and cleaning parts.
disclaimer:
The benchmark for restoration is extremely high here in this great forum. As to others, those fantastic resto documentations are the "bible" for me.
So I am sure I cant close up to that in any way.
In real live, I am no mechanic and even dont have an adequate workshop. In one word: I am a tax consultant.
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Here are two pics I got from the seller to get an impression what I may expect
Obviously many KO parts missing.
Here is a pic when we took her out of the barn with a snatch pulley
.. and a feature film to this mission. I call it "old farts taking old bike out of old barn"
(even if you speak German you wont understand what he´s saying)
(http://i1077.photobucket.com/albums/w461/Uli911/badges/th_VID-20160422-WA0007_zpswydeesuq.mp4) (http://i1077.photobucket.com/albums/w461/Uli911/badges/VID-20160422-WA0007_zpswydeesuq.mp4)
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Good for you Uli!!
What a great find and unique recovery video!
Now the fun begins, finding those few components need to make your Sandcast whole again. Enjoy the success of finding your hidden gem.
Duane
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Uli, that looks like an absolutely lovely basis for restoration ! FANTASTIC VIDEO ! ;D ! ;D ! ;D !
keep us up to date with your progress. the nice thing about these early CB750's, they are really very simple and require very few special tools, so assuming you have some mechanical aptitude, you can do alot of your own work yourself ! and ask us questions anytime !!!!
ps - "tax consultant" is 2 words ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D
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Thank you.
Yes, until now I mainly needed a 10, 12, 14 nut, Vessel driver and a heating gun.
Last weekend I started stripping her down.
Now looks like that:
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Here is my first question:
What may tell me this sticker?
I assume this bike was used by a student in NY as a commuter bike until August 1977 and then set aside.
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Happy for you ... Very nice machine in a good juice ...
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https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/State_University_of_New_York_at_Oswego
are the exhaust HM341 ?
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Yes.
But I have a set of NOS/NIB "HM300" pipes.
I know HM300 are not correct to a SC so will I have to sell those and buy myself new "no number" repros instead or take the HM300?
What would you do?
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"if your bike were mine" i would go with the "No.no" exhaust. for me, for things sandcast, the HM300 stamped exhaust with relief in 1 & 4 pipes simply are not correct, even more especially so if they are the "emissions paragraph" stamped HM300's. at least with the "No.no" exhaust, the only external difference from a Lotus Root exhaust is the 5 mm seams instead of 3 mm seams. i know Vic World fits, or at least used to fit, HM300's, rationale being, "My customers expect the bike to have genuine factory parts on the motorcycles they purchase for me." again, in this restoration process, there are always decisions and compromises we must make. IF there is a choice to not fit HM300's and i feel it's a better choice, THEN i would take that choice. therefore, "if your bike were mine" i would go with the "No.no" exhaust.
a set of oem nos HM300's, especially if in the factory boxes, are worth a nice number of USD's, DM's, GBP's, AUD's, KR's.......
and these are dented !!! http://www.ebay.com/itm/Honda-New-OEM-Exhaust-Mufflers-HM300-1969-71-CB750-K-Four-Genuine-Honda-Pipes-/331510096228?hash=item4d2f8aa164:g:WcMAAOxy66pRtPY1&vxp=mtr (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Honda-New-OEM-Exhaust-Mufflers-HM300-1969-71-CB750-K-Four-Genuine-Honda-Pipes-/331510096228?hash=item4d2f8aa164:g:WcMAAOxy66pRtPY1&vxp=mtr)
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Thanks for your thoughts.
Thats exact my dilemma: genuine Honda part or good replica.
But at the end HM300 would almost be as wrong as HM341 are. With better sound of course.
So I will take new No.No. and sell the HM300 to get some cash. Can't use them because my other KO'S are German spec and demand "HMCB750 " pipes.
And yes, they have these emission stamp.
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Here is the cleaned brake master cylinder.
Luckily, it is the correct early SC reservoir without filling-line.
And lots of patina here. Note, there is no darker area at the end because the bike correctly did´nt have the rubber boot.
So fundamental question: keeping patina where adequate or doing everything as new?
Bike will get new seat, pipes, paint in any case.
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IMHO the bike is in need of restoration. Assuming the frame is the color as seen in the pictures then you would need to at least have it repainted. In addition, there are items on the bike that need to be replaced such as the front fender/mudguard, seat etc. Even though the pipes are HM300, they are still early Honda fitment (maybe not on a Sandcast) but certainly Honda product so that would be one item I would keep. A set of HM 300s' may not be original to a sandcast but they are acceptable replacements like batteries and tyres, and are way better than a set of Yamiya No Nos. If you want pristine then have them rechromed or if that's not possible then opt for the Yamiya. Again this is my take
To recap, I would restore the bike to pristine order and enjoy the fruits of your labour. Be sure to check the tank and petcock for originality as this VIN should have the early 17litre tank and petcock. Also ensure the other items such as brake pedal, top triple clamp, rear foot pegs, horn, tacho (I think the speedo is a K1), switches, brake three way union, airbox, frame #8 bolts etc etc etc etc, are restored rather than replaced as these items are common only to these early VIN bikes KP
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i would "ditto what KP says." the problem with a "preservation" or a "conservation" v.s. a "restoration" is always patina. too much patina. or too severe patina. in either or both those cases, restoring certain parts of or on the bike and leaving others with patina can start looking real bad, real fast. in the antique motorcycle world, spraying new paint to appear "distressed" or "aged" is done often to try to match severely patina'd parts with parts with less patina. not sure there's a way to make anodizing appear "distressed" or conserve or preserve anodizing or chrome or zinc.
as KP says, "no.no" v.s. HM is a matter of personal taste and preference. i don't disagree with HM300's being "oem replacement part" rationale. i have a new set of non-paragraph HM300's on 2157 and they fit like shit. no better than Yamiya "no.no's." for me, even though the HM's come from Honda, out of Honda's box, their appearance is unacceptable if i want the bike to "appear" as close to original as possible. considerations like these put us "between a rock and a hard spot." or, "the devil and the deep blue sea." or, "damned if we do and damned if we don't." ??? :o ;D >:(
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My bad. I thought the pipes on the bike were HM300. I really didn't take much notice but if you have a new set of early HM300 that is a saving on outlays.
In relation to Steve's comment on the Yamiya no number pipes I would probably take his advice and go with Yamiya as he has much more resto work under his belt than me and also has worked with both types of pipes. If you have another project for the HM300 pipes use them for that.
Better still, find some Lettuce Root pipes and go with them. I am surprised that Yamiya's supplier doesn't make these in Stainless. Polished stainless is very close to chrome and would last a lifetime, not that I have much of that left ;D
It amazes me that these bikes keep cropping up. A barn in Germany we have stored a good Sandcast bike originally sold in the US. How many more are out there ???
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As said above I have no use for the "HM300".
I bought them a few years ago for my diecast but then realized she will need "HMCB750" pipes as being a German spec. bike.
Found those in the meantime.
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Took out the wire harness. Its the old -0400 type
Bevore going to the bigger tasks......will try to rescue this one and clean it first.
How may I restore those black (platic?) sheaths?
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if i did not say it already, the fit of Yamiya "no.no" exhaust leaves as much or even more to be desired as oem HM300's. i just fitted a set of Yamiya "no.no" to a K1, the connecting pipes at rear of exhaust do not align well at all. oem or repro, "alignment" varies from set to set. this last set of Yamiya's, the connecting pipes were off by half the diameter of the connecting pipe. "no.no's a really wrong part for the K1 application, but considering what prices are being demanded for oem HM's v.s. repro "no.no's," my going with "no.no's" is a no brainer for me.
as for getting the best possible alignment of these pipes, i have found leaving the exhaust loose at the spigots, tightening the passenger pillion bolts first, then the spigot bolts helps somewhat.
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Didn't Ash or Mark find the black wrapping to recover the harness ?
and, after you have harness apart, run the wires through an ultrasonic bath. you'll be pleasantly surprised how clear and more supple the terminal overs become !
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That´s what I did, Steve.
Here is the result:
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I think I will go for this one, 20mm diameter.
Thats slightly more but would give me a little more space to fiddle the cables.
http://www.ebay.de/itm/METERWARE-PVC-Isolierschlauch-Bougierrohr-fur-Kabelbaum-ca-20mm-/121992398202?hash=item1c6750457a:g:4PsAAOxy7nNTVjLF (http://www.ebay.de/itm/METERWARE-PVC-Isolierschlauch-Bougierrohr-fur-Kabelbaum-ca-20mm-/121992398202?hash=item1c6750457a:g:4PsAAOxy7nNTVjLF)
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Roughly cleaned front brake.
Good news: correct Tokico 1 caliper with "8" between front fins and the extra fin on the back, short neck brake hoses.
Bad news: brake hoses are porose and the bleeder as well as the brake line are stuck in the caliper. No wonder after sitting that long.
Bought myself a 10/12 brake-line wrench, sprayed WD40.... maybe have to fix them on the fork again to get them out.
+ heat?
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Mr. McGovern has produced these short neck hose in stellar fashion. i would suggest contacting KP for your brake hose needs.
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Heat the fitting area and get it HOT using LPG. The fitting will then be easily removed Try not to undo the fitting cold as this will damage the alloy
And yes, I have these hoses and are an EXACT match Email me if you want them KP
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Heat the fitting area and get it HOT using LPG. The fitting will then be easily removed Try not to undo the fitting cold as this will damage the alloy
And yes, I have these hoses and are an EXACT match Email me if you want them KP
Thank you for the info.
Email to you sent.
LPG = ? Will a heating gun give sufficient heat?
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Liquid Petroleum Gas
Butane/propane is another name commonly used although they are slightly different You can use a gas stove burner This will work
The aluminium and steel expand at different rates so the tight bond should be broken with heat
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Thanks for info.
Got parcel today and managed to fiddle the cables through the sheath.
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Finished cleaning the carbs. I love the Xmas present of my wife, a nice little ultrasonic cleaner.
Didn't want to make them too shine and tried to keep the original finish.
Good news, I found nice replica 5mm cables. Bad news, the upper connection to grip is bigger than genuine throttle cable. Single cable is longer, the 4 cables are shorter. No idea it this can work, I assume the 4 cables are too short to fix properly.
What would you do, regarding the upper connection?
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Here (the one the left) is the ignition switch the bike came with.
Obviously not a recessed one, but different to the other switches I have. "OFF" is upside down, the thread is longer, the ring is different.
The one on the right say "ignition", I guess this is a later one (K2 ?)
Is this a KO switch and if so, had all SC the recessed one, when did they change ?
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"What would you do, regarding the upper connection?"
find the correct throttle tube. or modify the throttle tube you have. the throttle tube is made of white plastic.
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If the overall cable length (4 cable and single cable combined) is correct as original then there should be no problem. Those 28mm caps and fittings are a real gem as not many bikes had these left on them due to a Honda recall.
Can anyone on here tell us if they know of anyone able to redo the alloy type stops on the end of the cable. I know screw in ends are available but not the same as the type that comes standard
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If the overall cable length (4 cable and single cable combined) is correct as original then there should be no problem.
The cable is not "free" when mounted on the bike as the splitter will be stuck behind the ignition coils and the frame.
So the longer upper cable will be a waste and the shorter 4 cables could be too short.
We will see.
Steve, what is meant with "throttle tube"?
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I think that's what honda parts book calls it.... it's the plastic parts the barrel of single cable attaches to. The grip covers the throttle tube.
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I don't need to chance this. Throttle grip (and the right hand switch assy.) fits to both cable versions.
The width of the threat is the same. The junction of the replica is just overall bigger/longer. Has the size of the 6mm cable version. I assume they took that as a template.
If someone don't knows what the genuine part looks like he wouldn't see this.
I think about changing the genuine part to the replica cables or try to use the old one.
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The set with the longer cables have them opposite to one another.
Which to me at least looks as original!
Erling.
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Top = genuine 5mm
Bottom = replica 5mm
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Started preparing nuts, bots, washers, springs etc. for the zinc plater.
I put them into the ultrasonic cleaner and add a bit of liquid rust remover to carb cleaner fluid.
Here is an example, front fork bolts (and upper tripple tree bolt)
Come quite good after 20min, good basis for zinc plater.
BTW: had these fork bolts and the holder been zinc plated?
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Didn't yet dare to work on the brake caliper to get the brake line out.
Continued to strip her down. Couldn't get the exhaust off, bolts of the joints are stuck too and joints are turned into a bad position I cant get reasonable access to the bots :'(
To have some success I took out the oil tank and took some pics for documentation.
Need some encouragement.
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Sorry, I'm on the road ! You're doing fine ! Just take your time ! Your original 5 mm cable should attach no problem to your throttle tube, IF your throttle tube is original.
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You can see the top engine casting date of 5-21 for E2005 in one photo.
DW
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Oil tank says 5 16.
Thanks for input.
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Keep up the good work uli, i enjoy watching your progress
where are the oil tank numbers on yours, i cant find any on all 3 of my tanks
pete
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And I have but one oil tank but can't find any date eather!
Erling.
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Here it is
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Pics from the rear rim.
I know there are different round types but I still cannot identify for sure.
Correct for # 1983?
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Uli,
The rim looks correct, but look for the DID logo in a small diamond adjacent to the valve hole on the rim. Use a magnifying glass to find the logo I'd rim is really rusted in this area.
Good luck,
Duane
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Pics from the rear rim.
I know there are different round types but I still cannot identify for sure.
Correct for # 1983?
(http://i1077.photobucket.com/albums/w461/Uli911/sandcast/DSC_0200_zpszfpp6pxm.jpg) (http://s1077.photobucket.com/user/Uli911/media/sandcast/DSC_0200_zpszfpp6pxm.jpg.html)
(http://i1077.photobucket.com/albums/w461/Uli911/sandcast/DSC_0202_zpshxjop0ju.jpg) (http://s1077.photobucket.com/user/Uli911/media/sandcast/DSC_0202_zpshxjop0ju.jpg.html)
Uli, There's only 1 round rim type and the one you have is correct KP
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Thanks, thats good news!
DID diamond logo is there.
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don't throw those original nipples away ! new replacements look completely different !
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Didn't knew that, thanks for hint!
Throwing away... I think, that's what I would have done.
Are those special KO nipples or to be found on any CB750four?
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Difficulties to dismantle the left rear footpeg, bolt stuck a no reasonable access to nut.
So decided to take the rear wheel out. To open the final chain (never done that before with a endless chain) I bought myself a chain tool.
Came in today
Not the cheapest one but I like (and even understud!) the video
https://www.bing.com/videos/search?q=kelermann+kettenwerkzeug&&view=detail&mid=911115C91E4D47D3CCCD911115C91E4D47D3CCCD&FORM=VRDGAR (https://www.bing.com/videos/search?q=kelermann+kettenwerkzeug&&view=detail&mid=911115C91E4D47D3CCCD911115C91E4D47D3CCCD&FORM=VRDGAR)
Took out the chain and the rear wheel. Took me almost 2 h as any bolt, pin was stuck.
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I doubt if this bike had even been cleaned in the USA.
We´ll see what I will find under that mess. Look at the pipes!
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Wife came out and took a photo.
Here I am, still on my knees...
.... as 35 years ago.
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Uli, wonderful pictures !!!! ;D ;D ;D ;D
your fine pictures deserves the best of SOOC ! why don't you ask Wayne to build you a thread under "Beginning to End - Member Restorations" ?
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OT:
got the paint set from Menno Dek in candy bluegreen for the KO (bike on the right in photo above). So I can finish this project soon.
He did an awesome work in preparing and painting. Tank had many dings and dongs and now is immaculate.
I know bluegreen is a difficult color and very hard to match with the original paint. Either it comes too green, too blue, too turquoise or too sparkling.
I sent him an original left side cover as a sample and he managed to match very closely. I doubt if anybody could do better, especially with the colors that can be bought.
Thanks again, Menno! It was worth the waiting.
Paint set for the sandcast will be sent to you soon.
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(http://www.sherv.net/cm/emoticons/yes/big-thumbs-up-smiley-emoticon.gif) (http://www.sherv.net/)
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Pete, yes, I hope Menno will see this.
Question regarding the headlight.
it says
on bottom
"General electric" "sealed beam"
on top
"Z68" and a big "2"
has two odd "horns" of glass at 2:00 and 10:00
I know it should be "Stanley" or "Kioto"
So what do I have, is it at least period correct?
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That's an automotive part.
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Thanks will look for a correct one.
Got the pipes from the bike, broke off one bolt.
Cleaned them roughly and sold to a mate.
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Found three types of joints: three thick one and a slim one, two of the thick ones have another shape to the third one.
Has anybody a thick one left for sale?
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Here are the oil pipes after cleaning. Regarding the distinction list they seem to be correct to the VIN.
Somehow strange golden color?
[
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the fabric is faded. it can be easily restored by using http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-11203-6-BLACK-11OZ-PLASTI-DIP-RUBBER-HANDLE-SPRAY-/130532336638?hash=item1e645563fe:g:iQQAAOSwv0tVHeYT (http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-11203-6-BLACK-11OZ-PLASTI-DIP-RUBBER-HANDLE-SPRAY-/130532336638?hash=item1e645563fe:g:iQQAAOSwv0tVHeYT)
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Found it here in ebay Germany and bought one. Thanks for hint, cool product!
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Will have to buy a rear inner fender.
Part number is 80105-300-000 for KO (010 for K1 and 341-000 for K2)
Are there any visual differences? Where would you buy?
And: whats the best way to get it out?
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Found it here in ebay Germany and bought one. Thanks for hint, cool product!
Any gross amounts of oil or debris, i gently wash the hoses in parts washer. then i use a towel to squeeze dry the fabric. i then gently use compressed air, but very carefully low pressure, as direct high pressure can disrupt and even tear the fabric. (appears you may already have some of the webbed fabric degrading.) then i use aerosol brake cleaner for final clean of the lines, again squeeze dry with a towel, followed by gentle low pressure air dry. then i mask off all the metal and spray on the rubberized coating in 3, 4 or 5 light coats. since your lines are sun bleached, they will probably soak up a fair amount of the aerosol rubber coating. (after the fabric is dry, before i mask off the ferrules, i always wear latex disposable gloves so any oils, etc from my hands don't contaminate my clean parts, that way the rubberized aerosol will have best possible clean surface.)
the plastic sub fender, just push one side into center of frame at the same time sliding the sub fender downward a little bit. should come right out.
i've been happy with the Yamiya sub fenders. i have not seen the Vic World sub fenders that JT Marks sells, i'm sure they are good.
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Got a KOITO headlamp.
Comes from an early Diecast KO
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Dismantled, cleaned and de-rusted the headlamp in my little ultrasnic cleaner.
Thought, I may have to re-chrome it but it became quite OK.
Got some parts back from re- chroming.
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Chrome looks nice uli
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Yes, maybe slightly too good looking at the brake lever.
In came the short neck brake lines. Thank you, Kerry!
Here to compare with genuine brake line (on top)
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Wonderful looking brake lines!
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Very good chroming!! ;)
But beware, the adjustment screw is not good (no cruciform) and optics if final is mounted upside down...
http://www.ebay.com/itm/HONDA-33103-292-003-HEADLIGHT-BEAM-ADJUST-SCREW-/371198752663?hash=item566d2b7797:g:Vw0AAOSw7ThUdLYR&vxp=mtr (http://www.ebay.com/itm/HONDA-33103-292-003-HEADLIGHT-BEAM-ADJUST-SCREW-/371198752663?hash=item566d2b7797:g:Vw0AAOSw7ThUdLYR&vxp=mtr)
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Not certain if I understand what you wrote with that adj. screw.
That headlight came from an early diecast, parts book shows a cross head screw. I assume its correct.
That headlight ring is not re-chromed.
I just cleaned and de-rusted it.
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Yes, you are right and it is the reference on 33103-300-003 Partlist 69-4
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Inside shot of the oil filter case the bike came with.
I always thought the version with fins are strengthened inside?
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Inside shot of the oil filter case the bike came with.
I always thought the version with fins are strengthened inside?
i do believe what you have there is the very first version of the "new (finned) oil the filter case marked with the numeral "2" stamped on the top surface between the center vanes," as noted in Honda Service Bulletin #13, 1/26/70.
these first cases did not have reinforcement webbing.
the oil filter bolt should measure 12 mm across the flats.
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It is indeed the first version of the finned oil bowl. Check carefully for a crack on the inside around the boss due to a PO having overtightened; a common occurrence hence why Honda reinforced it internally with ribs.
Chris R.
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No cracks but a new dilemma, same as with HM300: keep that thing on the bike as a genuine, period correct Honda replacement or look for a good replica fin-less part?
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My view FWIW, is that the finned bowl you have is likely its original one.
There is evidence which SUGGESTS that the finned bowls were fitted from VIN 1783 onwards. Service bulletin #13 of 26th Jan 1970 covers the fitting of a modified oil filter bowl (with fins, and a number 2 embossed between two of the fins) to CB750's in the range of VIN 1783 to VIN 9554, due to problems of cracking around the inner boss of the first version finned bowl. Presumably the quoted VIN range covers the range of VINS factory fitted with the first type crack probe finned bowl. I am simply surmising that the replacement was not applied to VINS prior to 1783 because those were factory fitted with unfinned bowls which were not crack prone.
That is only my take on this subject as there are also those whose recollections are that later VIN's than 1783 came from the factory with round bowls. Given I was not fortunate to have had one of these back in the day, I am not going to suggests such observations / recollections to be incorrect. This is just another of those areas of uncertainty.
Chris R.
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Thank you Chris.
So I have the first version finned bowl, there is no"2" between the fins.
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Chris, thanks for clarifying the cover on Uli's bike to be original from factory, not the replacement as per service bulletin.
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My view FWIW, is that the finned bowl you have is likely its original one.
There is evidence which SUGGESTS that the finned bowls were fitted from VIN 1783 onwards. Service bulletin #13 of 26th Jan 1970 covers the fitting of a modified oil filter bowl (with fins, and a number 2 embossed between two of the fins) to CB750's in the range of VIN 1783 to VIN 9554, due to problems of cracking around the inner boss of the first version finned bowl. Presumably the quoted VIN range covers the range of VINS factory fitted with the first type crack probe finned bowl. I am simply surmising that the replacement was not applied to VINS prior to 1783 because those were factory fitted with unfinned bowls which were not crack prone.
That is only my take on this subject as there are also those whose recollections are that later VIN's than 1783 came from the factory with round bowls. Given I was not fortunate to have had one of these back in the day, I am not going to suggests such observations / recollections to be incorrect. This is just another of those areas of uncertainty.
Chris R.
Chris,
Interesting, I currently own E2765 & E3599 and both have round finless oil filer housings. I always thought the filter cover changed over to the finned versions about the same time the horn changed from left to right side, around VIN 4000.
Best,
Duane
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Uli,
Does your engine pad have three punch marks on the stator side? It looks like it might, but I can't quite distinguish for sure in photo?
Thanks much,
Duane
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My view FWIW, is that the finned bowl you have is likely its original one.
There is evidence which SUGGESTS that the finned bowls were fitted from VIN 1783 onwards. Service bulletin #13 of 26th Jan 1970 covers the fitting of a modified oil filter bowl (with fins, and a number 2 embossed between two of the fins) to CB750's in the range of VIN 1783 to VIN 9554, due to problems of cracking around the inner boss of the first version finned bowl. Presumably the quoted VIN range covers the range of VINS factory fitted with the first type crack probe finned bowl. I am simply surmising that the replacement was not applied to VINS prior to 1783 because those were factory fitted with unfinned bowls which were not crack prone.
That is only my take on this subject as there are also those whose recollections are that later VIN's than 1783 came from the factory with round bowls. Given I was not fortunate to have had one of these back in the day, I am not going to suggests such observations / recollections to be incorrect. This is just another of those areas of uncertainty.
Chris R.
Chris,
Interesting, I currently own E2765 & E3599 and both have round finless oil filer housings. I always thought the filter cover changed over to the finned versions about the same time the horn changed from left to right side, around VIN 4000.
Best,
Duane
I'll go to my grave with two very distinctively clear memories of my 4779 having a round oil filter cover. I have noted those memories elsewhere on this forum.
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E Vin 1638 did come with finless oil filter house, and it did end up having 3 hairline crashes from centre and out!
August 24 '69 I saw in Sweden 2 CB 750 both having finned filters. E Vins about 23XX.
Erling.
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Uli,
Does your engine pad have three punch marks on the stator side? It looks like it might, but I can't quite distinguish for sure in photo?
Thanks much,
Duane
Sorry I don't understand your question. Engine pad = ?
Which part in the parts book do you refer to?
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Uli,
Sorry for the confusion. The engine number pad, where the numbers are stamped on the engine of 2005. Are there three round punch marks stamped on left of engine number pad?
Thanks,
DW
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pic
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Cleaned the rear shocks. Came out quite good. Managed to get rid of most of the rust spots.
Chrome on springs is partly faded.
(I sold NOS KO springs 1 or two years ago via e-bay ......)
You can see on the left shock where the showa sticker had been. Just for reference.
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the fabric is faded. it can be easily restored by using http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-11203-6-BLACK-11OZ-PLASTI-DIP-RUBBER-HANDLE-SPRAY-/130532336638?hash=item1e645563fe:g:iQQAAOSwv0tVHeYT (http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-11203-6-BLACK-11OZ-PLASTI-DIP-RUBBER-HANDLE-SPRAY-/130532336638?hash=item1e645563fe:g:iQQAAOSwv0tVHeYT)
Done with that stuff. Thanks for hint!
Will be biking in Colorado next 8 days with 4 mates. Flying to Denver tomorrow. So no progress till end of June.
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I live 60 miles north of Denver !
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Uli,
Nice job on the oil lines!
Steve's restoration advice worked great.
Best,
DW
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I live 60 miles north of Denver !
Great!
We booked with eagle riders...Denver -Glen wood Springs........ Montrose ...Cortez ......Alamosa. .....Vail.......Denver.
Oh taxi to station is coming now. Cheers
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Sorry for OT... epic trip...here we are ... (BMW is mine. .)
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Back home.
Got parcel. Set of early sandcast instruments in great condition. Found those on local ebay.
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Finally managed to get the brake line out of the caliper.
Lots of heat (I doubt that the caliper is painted, at least there is no sign of burned paint after the heat gun) but no way with a brake line wrench.
Had to cut the line and tried with a 10 nut. No way either (turned inside the nut).
Even more heat and a water pump plier did it.
Don't tell me this was the holy grail of brake lines!
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Back home.
Got parcel. Set of early sandcast instruments in great condition. Found those on local ebay.
(http://i1077.photobucket.com/albums/w461/Uli911/sandcast/2016-06-29%2016.24.47_zpsenl9ak4o.jpg) (http://s1077.photobucket.com/user/Uli911/media/sandcast/2016-06-29%2016.24.47_zpsenl9ak4o.jpg.html)
(http://i1077.photobucket.com/albums/w461/Uli911/sandcast/2016-06-29%2016.35.25_zps6ujw3eqr.jpg) (http://s1077.photobucket.com/user/Uli911/media/sandcast/2016-06-29%2016.35.25_zps6ujw3eqr.jpg.html)
They look great but they have been restored These instruments are not original unrestored Sorry to be the bearer of bad news if it is bad news
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Yes, but I hope they are correct to #1983 sancast newertheless?
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Uli,
The gauges in the photos are correct for your bike's Vin, they are series II style gauges with small chamfers which fit the middle run Sandcast.
DW
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Thanks for info.
These are the gauges the bike came with. Diecast, but unrestored with patina.
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good score on the gauges uli, definitely the right ones for your vin
pete
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Got back the front brake caliper holder from a mate of the German CB750 four club.
He overhault it (and a spare one) by boring up the caliper holder joint, grinding it (correct word?) and molding in (?) teflon coated bushings.
That wont squeak any more!
-
With help of a friend a took out the engine today. Made that for the first time in my life.
Don't think i will get that engine clean by myself. Maybe I will have that blasted with dry ice. How do you call that ....Vapor blasting?
-
Opened the oil pan. Found a lot of plastic chips.
-
E2005 has the early oil pan (without the both rectangular castings), lower engine case has a casting date.
-
Frame and other parts ready to be painted.
-
Got back rear 2-hole fender with new chrome.
Quick assembly, so you wont see the dings under the rear light holder 8)
-
Cleaned, de-rusted and prepared for zinc plating with a brass-brush bolts, nuts, washers, springs and other parts
-
Cleaned the rear brake and prepared wheels for new spokes and re- chroming.
Rear hub is old two hole.
Still the KO dampers in good condition in.
Brake panel has casting date 5 - 27.
-
Started cleaning the engine by myself.
Bigger part had been broken out some day. That has to be fixed.
Lower engine case had been welded, I assume due to a broken chain.
-
Here is the tool kit.
Before cleaning I thought about new zinc plating it, but now will keep it at it is.
File point is missing. Does anybody has a spare one? Or knows where to get one?
Could swap with a spare red grip.
-
Sad, no one has.
Bought an overhaul set for the master cylinder and replaced that and seal for brake caliper.
Thats what came out of the master cylinder (and decided to keep the patina and not to anodize it)
-
Fork legs before work on it.
Looking for pics and hints with correct finish.
-
Regarding rear wheel. I have a set of NOS dampers, but they are without those holes.
Which ones are correct, when did they change that?
-
Uli,
There are several articles on this site to help with the fork outer finish as well as a topic on damper rubbers. There is also a "How To" by Vic World which I believe can be accessed via a link.
PS auto correct changed Uli to Ali.
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Those solid rubber dampers are to me the original ones.
When they were changed, free of charge, I do not remember.
Think Markb asked for a set in his restoration of 97!
Your repaired crank case might not be due to a completely broken chain.
Just a loose chain stretching over the front sprocket might do it.
Have experienced that too.
On another occasion mine just rolled off with no damage to anything.
Of all places starting out of a gas station north of Würthburg Germany.
On my way to Misano GP in Italy.
Had an extra chain, though not intended for use till return run to Danmark!
Erling.
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Those solid rubber dampers are to me the original ones.
When they were changed, free of charge, I do not remember.
Think Markb asked for a set in his restoration of 97!
Your repaired crank case might not be due to a completely broken chain.
Just a loose chain stretching over the front sprocket might do it.
Have experienced that too.
On another occasion mine just rolled off with no damage to anything.
Of all places starting out of a gas station north of Würthburg Germany.
On my way to Misano GP in Italy.
Had an extra chain, though not intended for use till return run to Danmark!
Erling.
Erling ;)
Yes, it happened to one of my friend in October 69 its Sandcast... It was dark, I followed him and there was a shower of sparks on the road .... its chain had broken and there I think it was his lucky day because the chain occurred without breaking anything .... We had to look for the chain has the headlights.
At the same time I write.. there I see very clearly this video in my head...
This remains very good memories...
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Thanks for input, gentlemen.
Still not sure at which VIN they changed the rubbers to those with holes.
A good friend of mine is restoring a diecast, VIN 9.2xx, and it has these solid rubbers without holes.
This bike had never seen a HONDA workshop, so no official replacements and still has the "28" carbs.
So I am pretty sure that all SC originally had the solid version.
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http://cb750sandcastonly.com/smf_forum/index.php/topic,1110.0.html (http://cb750sandcastonly.com/smf_forum/index.php/topic,1110.0.html)
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4pots 1969.
Had this friend of yours had sticking throttle slides?
In my day I was the only one in town on a CB750.
So never really had anyone to talk "daily" problems with.
Think I have a post card dated Oct '69 from Honda.
They had forwarded my problem to the distributor of my area!
Not a word about what it was.
Come to think about it now some explaining of holes in centre of clutch hub to ease plate separate!
Neither do I remember having been called to dealer for some help.
But of cause I had been to dealer asking for help before writing to Japan.
Just felt they had no detailed knowledge of this new bike on the market.
More or less similar to my present day ride: a Fireblade.
Now 170K km had gear change problems from day one, now more than 20 years ago.
Dealer just told me to learn to change gear properly when on a Honda!
And I had at the time done maybe half a million km!
Though mostly on a flat twin BMW.
Sandcast got a Seeley frame after '78. That made it a delight to ride.
With 4 into one exhaust. Pipes don't touch so easily.
Engine of the Blade runs silky smooth as ever.
But it jumps out of fourth gear! Not on the overrun though.
After 10 years I wrote to Japan asking them to tell dealer what to do.
Was duely answeed: go to the Honda of your area, Where of cause I had already been.
Then a friend advised me on to Fireblade.org.
A handful of owners had similar problem!
And solutions which I was not quite sure of interpreting correct.
Went to the dealer with this knowledge.
He just asked me to leave his place and ask those people for help!
Erling.
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Honda Factory Service Bulletin, #15, 3/16/70, discussues replacement of rear wheel rubber dampers beginning vin 1 through 16,997. the sketch on page 8 of this bulletin shows the replacement dampers having holes in them. of course, these are sketches, yet they also depict the replacement dampers being same sized, unlike the early dampers being the "4 fat/4 thin" type.
-
Started work on the front fork.
Some serious scratches here.
Started with 180 sandpaper to 400, 800 and 1200wet plus a light polish with a microfiber cloth and ambassador creme.
-
good work uli
pete
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Thanks Pete.
Waiting for the clear coat to come to finish that.
Today, been to a good old friend with the brake rotor. Dated 5 14 and still in good condition but has some corrugations and marks. I assume from brake fluid.
Thomas has a nice company with CNC turning machines and luckily still an old machine perfect to work on the rotor.
http://duerr-drehen.de/ (http://duerr-drehen.de/)
Sandpaper and scotch did it.
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Looking for pics of front and rear wheel hub for correct finish.
-
Cleaned the hubs. Casting date of rear hub is May, 6.
Took off the clear coat with formic acid.
Slightly polished them.
Waiting for the re - zinced spokes and re-chromed rims.
-
Got back misc. stuff from zinc plater.
Before & after sorting
-
Any update on your project Uli
-
Not much, Kerry.
Waiting for the paint set, frame and other fram related parts are out for painting, engine for welding bottom case, rims for re - chrome ....
Took the "28" carbs apart. Here is a comparison with later K0 parts.
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top end taken off.
Everything fine here, as fasr as I can see. She will get new chain, guide, and roller.
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Uli
Cam cradle x 1 has end cuts. Is the rocker cover original. I think the cylinders are from a later bike also.
-
Kerry,
I´m afraid my English is not good enough. Can you precise what you see or, better, mark that on the pics?
Can take more detail pics on Friday, I´m out for some days.
Thanks,
Uli
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Yes, agree with KP for cylinders that are diecast, K2 very later >> maybe even again later?
-
Best I can do sorry
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Zhank you.
Cut-away I understud.
Late head and gasket...I did´nt
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This looks to be a later type cylinder casting. See arrow
-
Thank you very much. That realy sets me back.
Found this cylinder in my inventories... I think its a KO cylinder? Please check nevertheless.
-
And this head. No idea where this belongs to.
-
Thanks for input.
here are two better pics of the head the bike came with. Comments ?
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Pic of the cam chain roller. The one on the right, completely worn. Compare to a newer one on the left.
The chain itself is heavily lenghened and already worked its way into the cylinder. Will replace anything here.
My spare K0 cylinder (+0,25) will get new pistons and rings.
-
Primary chains to be repalced as well.
Gearbox, forks, drum looks OK.
Clutch basket the KO type.
-
Good news: seems to have the narrow tripple tree.
-
BTW: Are SC cylinder and head been painted?
-
BTW: Are SC cylinder and head been painted?
yes, painted.
-
Thank you, Steve.
That head the bike came with looks to be a KO head without that additional boss. So I may keep this one. Can you confirm?
Regarding the cases I would assume, they are not painted.
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Uli
Is the rocker cover original.
Here it is.
I think it is what you call the "type B" version:
http://cb750sandcastonly.com/smf_forum/index.php/topic,408.0.html (http://cb750sandcastonly.com/smf_forum/index.php/topic,408.0.html)
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Thank you, Steve.
That head the bike came with looks to be a KO head without that additional boss. So I may keep this one. Can you confirm?
Regarding the cases I would assume, they are not painted.
KP will need to give his opinion on that head. Beyond sandcast heads, i have not seen the different later variations he has. Chris Rushton would also know, would be nice to hear from him.
The cases are painted. if you go to Mark's #97 restoration page, you'll find what paint he used on the cases/head/cyl. the small rectangular cam chain cover used a different color paint. i have those 2 different paints up at my shop, as i recall, both by Duplicolor.
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The head you picture Uli is a later K0 head as described in the main SOOC website under the topic technical. This head is fine for your purposes as are your spare cylinder set. I really don't know when the changes to the heads was made but given there were around 20000 made anyone can have a guess The cut off dates for one part to a newer version is not my cup of tea. This is where Mr Rushton excels as he has documented the changes of so many items over the years. I believe the cylinders were changed from Sandcast to die cast manufacturing somewhere in the 14000 mark but that's just something I thought was the case but may not be Either way the extra head bolt boss was cast before they actually drilled the hole through the boss so anything with a boss with and without a hole was well past Sandcast production
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Thank you for your info, gentleman.
Kerry, any comments on the valve cover?
And: were the SC cylinder and heads sandcasted?
-
Here is a pic of the sandblasted frame.
That gusset looks realy roughly weldet.
No idea what those holes in the gusstes are made for. I will have to have them closed?
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Lower fork clamb with "4M".
So doubtful again that the letter stands for the month.
Upper tripple tree has a stamp as well, but I only can identify "4"
-
Uli
Cam cradle x 1 has end cuts.
Another pic with the cam.... On the left new, on the right old cam holders.
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The cam cover is indeed an early type 2 cover. Make sure you keep the small breather cover and cam cover together as these are a matched pair The breather cover is taller than the later covers
The 4 is common to the K0 triple clamps and the narrow horn on this clamp as you noted is unique to bikes up to around frame 2000 or so.
I see when you had the sand blasting carried out you did not remove the steering lock and steering lock cover. This cover is unique to the K0/Sandcast bikes so you will need to source another. I am not sure what is under this plastic cover on this particular lower fork clamp or if the clamp itself is a K0 one. Later lower clamps had a welded ring on the lock housing to offer better lock security.
The cam cradles are not early Sandcast cradles and from my observations were not correctly installed on the head ie: with the cut sections facing outwards rather than inwards. I could well be wrong as looking at pictures it is a difficult thing to say with certainty. These cradles are date coded so find the ink stamp codes and you will find the year of manufacture.
The cut out sections have been done to the end of the rocker shaft stands to clear the rocker cover top. The type 3 rocker cover has depressions to clear these later camshaft cradles. The later camshaft cradles were made with wider and thicker rocker shaft posts than earlier types Your engine would have had the earlier and narrower posts which commonly cracked due to overload of the engine (high revving)
In Marks restoration there is specific reference to number 97's cam cradles and he clearly shows these narrow post cam cradles and also documents with pictures a cracked post
The camshafts used in Sandcasts all have an R code cast into the centre section of the shaft. These codes are R1 to R4. In later models these R codes go higher and I've seen R7 camshaft codes on much later die cast engines. I believe your shaft should be R2 or R3 I can't remember what should be what or what frame numbers should have what. My thoughts are that the cam profiles were changed to lessen the stresses on the rocker gear. I believe the lobe ramp angles and the valve spring pressures were adjusted to reduce pressure on the rocker gear but I have no evidence to back this up.
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All Sandcast engines have sandcast cylinders and heads.
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Thank you for the welcome info.
I hope I can rescue the steering lock cover but it is metal not plastic anyway.
Any thoughts on the frame gusset and those holes?
I intended to bring the frame parts to the painter next days.
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someone probably drilled those holes in the gusset for a luggage rack. they should not be there.
the steering lock cover should be black plastic, original was not a metal cover. Yamiya makes a good repro, includes the screw and the washer.
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Thanks, Steve. Will look for those and have the holes welded.
Kerry, cam is R4.
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Looks to be plastic in the photo Can you remove the cover and post a photo of the lock housing.
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Kerry, cam is R4.
Hmmm! Wrong cam IMHO. Where are you Mr Rushton 🚔🚁🚤🛰🤔
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Looks to be plastic in the photo Can you remove the cover and post a photo of the lock housing.
Aargghh.....It's on the way to the painter.
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Gentlemen, could you please have a look at this head.
I am still not familiar with all the details but I assume it is a correct SC head that I could get
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And here is a cylinder that I could get from the same gentleman.
The one on the left side. Is this the rough sandcast version?
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Looks to be plastic in the photo Can you remove the cover and post a photo of the lock housing.
Aargghh.....It's on the way to the painter.
Uli, I think you want to go too fast in the work...
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Gentlemen, could you please have a look at this head.
I am still not familiar with all the details but I assume it is a correct SC head that I could get
I have informed you for your question on the head with pictures, and you have not even responded to my post... ??? ???
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Gentlemen, could you please have a look at this head.
I am still not familiar with all the details but I assume it is a correct SC head that I could get
Head is OK but I cannot see enough of cylinder to verify. The other head you gave pictured is also OK
Gerard, your post has vanished. I did see the post but it is now not there.
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Gentlemen, could you please have a look at this head.
I am still not familiar with all the details but I assume it is a correct SC head that I could get
I have informed you for your question on the head with pictures, and you have not even responded to my post... ??? ???
I have seen it and it was very helpful. Sorry I didn't answer.
Can you have a look on that head I may buy? Merci en advance!
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Gentlemen, could you please have a look at this head.
I am still not familiar with all the details but I assume it is a correct SC head that I could get
Head is OK but I cannot see enough of cylinder to verify. The other head you gave pictured is also OK
Gerard, your post has vanished. I did see the post but it is now not there.
Yes sorry... dear KP, no Uli answer so I deleted ...
When I break my head to help, I have to have answers in return ... But sometimes I'm too impulsive !!
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And here is a cylinder that I could get from the same gentleman.
The one on the left side. Is this the rough sandcast version?
Yes, it's good it's the raw version of sandcast until the beginning of the K1 but you have to make more pictures ...
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Thanks Gerard.
Actually, that cylinder has 64mm bore and a brocken barrel.
Nevertheless, I just agreed with the gentleman and bought this one together with the head. He will send me the other head hardware as well so hopefully I will get the correct cam holders. Let´s see when its here.
Will ask him for a R1-R3 cam as well.
Gerard, I try to answer to all replies. Sorry again that I forgot just your post with head pics.
Maybe you can post them again because they are very helpfull.
Regarding those dimples: I wonder why the first version had them (according to your post) , next (the version my bike came with) don´t have them and K1 onwards have them again.
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Here again the head I took of #1983.
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For your cylinder 64 mm it does not matter because you can heat the shirts with a heat gun and tap gently to extract...
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For your cylinder 64 mm it does not matter because you can heat the shirts with a heat gun and tap gently to extract...
Yes.
Will have to buy barrels, pistons and rings.
-
Got parcel today.
Cylinder, head, cam and cam holders.
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Are K0/sandcast rockers different to later ones?
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Yes. The rear intake rocker shaft casting is cast wider on later engines. Same thickness as the front. This is why the rocker cover off later engines (type 3) is taller and has indents cast into the inner surface in 4 places along the shaft axis.
If you go to Marks restoration he has a good picture of the early type with crack Mark had his repaired to keep it original. I'm unsure when the modification to this rocker shaft/ camshaft cradle was changed It may be mid production???
I see an R1 camshaft. I'm thinking the 18XX engines should have an R2 or R3, but then, does it matter. ;)
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Thanks again for the info.
I will ask that gentleman if he still has the rockers and pins that came with that head/cam.
Regarding cam: I will compare the shape R1 to R4 to R7 soon or is this done already?
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Does anybody have a pic that shows the difference in the rocker to later models?
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If you go to Marks restoration he has a good picture of the early type with crack Mark had his repaired to keep it original. I'm unsure when the modification to this rocker shaft/ camshaft cradle was changed It may be mid production???
Uli, As I said you need to look at Marks restoration for the answer. You must do some of your own research. See page 33 of his restoration thread and here is a picture from that page
http://cb750sandcastonly.com/smf_forum/index.php/topic,366.480.html (http://cb750sandcastonly.com/smf_forum/index.php/topic,366.480.html)
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Kerry, I know the rocker holders are different and don't have the holes that later (beginning K2?) have.
I thought you mentioned the rockers themself?
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OK My bad. The rocker cradle themselves as pictured are cast narrower at the four ends where the shafts slide through. As far as I know the rocker arms themselves didn't alter throughout Sandcast production. You will see in Marks restoration photo (attached) where one of these cracked which was the reason the casting was changed to the later type
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Ah OK now I got it (and understud what cradle means). Thanks for explanation.
I will take those that were in the bike.
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Lower case welded
-
I am happy with the result. I dont think its visible when engine is in.
-
New bearings needed here.
-
Rockers and pins are good.
-
New chromed rims came in, spokes and nipples zinc-plated.
Rear brake cleaned, slightly polished, new clear coat. Lever new chrome.
-
Rear dampers in comparison.
On the right the old SC version I found NOS. Will take those.
-
Kick start return spring brocken.
Found more or less by accident.
-
If you need a spare, i probably have one.
-
Thanks Steve, I have one (the one on top). Change the whole asy.
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Thanks Steve, I have one (the one on top). Change the whole asy.
Uli, keep the original part with the bike. They're different gears.
-
Ah OK.
Thanks!
-
Wheels are almost ready and have new Gold Seal.
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Fuel tank, stripped down, derusted inside, dings fixed and painted by Menno Dek.
Perfect as always.
Thanks again, Menno!
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Beautiful work, Uli. always very fun and rewarding to see the old pieces (one at a time!) look like new again.
-
Very nice.
-
Wheels are almost ready and have new Gold Seal.
Hi Uji, Are the wheel hubs lacquered or just left polished.
Wheels very nice finish as usual to your standards.
Garry 🇬🇧😄
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Thank you gentlemen for the praise.
I couldn't do that without tyour advice in this great forum, the help of some friends and my network to painter, chromer, zinc plater and welder.
Garry, the hubs are not clear coated. Honestly, I forgot to do so. However, the rear brake panel is clear coated.
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Found a NOS/NIB mission cover, part no. 11360-300-030.
According to parts book, this is used until # 7414, so sandcast only.
No idea if there is a difference to later 11360-300-040 for #7415 onwards.
Inside is a No, I assume prod. date. I see 44.10 15
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Found the answer
http://cb750sandcastonly.com/smf_forum/index.php/topic,1092.0.html (http://cb750sandcastonly.com/smf_forum/index.php/topic,1092.0.html)
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Here is the mission cover that came with E2005.
So that´s odd.
The NOS cover has the correct early part number and should be a sc part but looks to be the later version.
Any thoughts?
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Perhaps because the covers produced October 15, 1969 were already showing different distinctions than the covers produced in June, 1969......?
too bad there's no date on your original cover.
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Yes, they must have changed that within the first -030 serie but what is the difference to - 040 for #7415 onwards?
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looks like it. one of those distinctions that is not reflected in parts book and important only to serious restorers.
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I'll take the old one and have that polished. Try to get the same finish.
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New primary chain, new tensioner, new crankshaft bearings
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Head straightened (?), valves grinded (?) in, new cam chain, tensioners, rollers, clutch....zylinders honed etc. pp
-
Got a lot of stuff back from chromeing and painting.
Here is the exhaust joint set back from chroming (No. 1 -No3).
You have left/right + inner/outer so they are all different to each other.
In the meantime, I foung missing No.4 (outer right) via ebay in USA.
Had been offered there alone but costed me a fortune to have it here.
Bolts have been zinc plated.
-
Painted frame.
Left hand horn bracket.
Holes in rear gussets had been closed.
-
Some update, engine almost completed.
Pistons in, cases closed
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cylinder mounted
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.... head
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... and R1 cam with holders mounted.
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Started with the bolts, washer & pins puzzle.
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... pre-assembled some parts. Without parts list I´d be completely lost.
Here the steering stem with the early brake joint and early brake switch.
Is that brake joint a sandcast-only or a KO part?
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Fork sliders (bottoms) polished and clear coated, new oil seals.
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Whilst I don't respond to all your posts, I can assure you I read them all with interest ;D
As for the bolt, nut and washer list, Mark did a great reference guide to these so copy that reference and you should not be troubled
The early brake splitter was only fitted to the first 22XX bikes. Even though it was changed to a locking tab type, the short neck brake lines fit both splittersThe black brake light switch is common to the K0 bikes and maybe even some K1's but this latter comment may be wrong.
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Thanks for that info and feedback, Kerry.
Although there were obviously some KO parts missing at this bike its always exciting to find that some very early parts are still there.
Please comment when I do a mistake.
BTW: we had to take one Kawa bolt on the engine cases. I´m sure you will find it.
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Gear shifter.
Left late, right early style.
Until which # was the early style used?
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Good Work Uli...
It progressed well, I had noticed the top of the head with the 7 ;D ;D
I must have a 6X56 bolt with the 8 on top of the head If you are interested...Christmas present ;)
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Good eye, Gerard!
X-mas present always welcomed!
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Your doing a good job uli , keep up the good work fella
pete
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Thank you, Pete.
Any thoughts concerning the gear pedal? Can´t find anything here in the forum.
Kerry, where may I find the bolts&washer list?
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uli, i think this is what you are looking for
http://cb750sandcastonly.com/smf_forum/index.php/topic,747.0.html (http://cb750sandcastonly.com/smf_forum/index.php/topic,747.0.html)
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great!!
Thanks for link, Steve.
Now I can see where my chrome bolts belong to.
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Painter mixed up some parts of me and my mate who is restoprring several K1/K2/K6 750 at once.
So we got a bunch of side stands back ::) :o Some short one and one long type.
So I assume the long one is K0 and/or sandcast? Please help
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In the day I got a long one for my Seeley.
Said to come from a CB500!
Erling.
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Thanks for hint!
Once you know it looks to be CB500.
No idea how this one found its way to me.
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Regarding gear pedal I found a hint on "Original HONDA CB750" by John Wyatt. But not saying what "early" means.
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Left hand side panel grommets....
up to # 4148 small size, from # 4149 bigger with new part number
found those by accident in my boxes
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Honda still produces the small grommets. Not sure of the source, but they are used in the Marine division You will probably find reference to them. Mark B may know. KP
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i've been unsuccessfully searching on the website and the forum, i seem to recall the gear pedal topic was discussed in the past. it's hard to tell from your pictures and then walking to either of my bikes to compare your pics to pedals on my bikes. i know there is a couple posts in Mark's #97 build, but i did not see any information i would call conclusive. i would hazard a guess the straight pedal is the one you want. the curved pedal on the left looks like a later pedal and also has an unoriginal bend at the toe piece.
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Hi,
Yamiya sells two kind of grommets and they are Honda original according to them.
http://www.yamiya750.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=246_251_182_83 (http://www.yamiya750.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=246_251_182_83)
/Ken
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I saved 520 yen as I found old ones.
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Too cold in the garage.
Just mounted the center stand applying the good old washer trick and pre-mounted some parts.
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It is much nicer to see the parts remade clean and beautiful posed on the bed !! Did you sleep with ?? ::) ::)
In agreement with you Uli for the choice of conical steering...
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Yes....just in case someone ever will ride that bike.
Guest may sleep between me and the wife or on the floor.
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Hi There,
happy new year..
is it the air box for your Sandy on the bed?
if yes , it should be a 2 holes bracket..
with my regard
Benji
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I know.
But I have no genuine 2 hole case and this is the one that came with the bike.
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ok
it' was just in case
just for helping you!!
kind regard
Benj
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Thank you.
Does anybody have detail pics of the 2 hole replica cases?
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Thank you.
Does anybody have detail pics of the 2 hole replica cases?
I don't have any pics but I've compared the Yamiya repop to an original and it is a near perfect copy
You can use the Yamiya top and mate it with a genuine bottom which is similar to having a Heineken with lemonade. 🙃
Truth is the Yamiya 2 hole is incorrect for your Frame number. There are 2 different two hole air boxes. The no indent type same as the Yamiya and the later version with indents which would be what was fitted to your bike, so really a 2 hole incorrect type or a 3 hole is academic IMHO
Looking good where you're at with the rebuild👍
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Thank you.
Does anybody have detail pics of the 2 hole replica cases?
I don't have any pics but I've compared the Yamiya repop to an original and it is a near perfect copy
You can use the Yamiya top and mate it with a genuine bottom which is similar to having a Heineken with lemonade. 🙃
Truth is the Yamiya 2 hole is incorrect for your Frame number. There are 2 different two hole air boxes. The no indent type same as the Yamiya and the later version with indents which would be what was fitted to your bike, so really a 2 hole incorrect type or a 3 hole is academic IMHO
Looking good where you're at with the rebuild👍
Thats the dilema. Not correct repro or not correct genuine part.
Was the 3 hole case a service replacement by HONDA (as the oil filter case or carburetors?).
Are you sure the yamiya 2 hole repro top will fit a genuine bottom?
I tried to so so with a 3 hole repro top and it does not fit a genuine bottom. Its too small.
The yamiya repro bottom part is missing the backside "flap" (?) and on the front side its different too:
upper: repro
lower: genuine
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...and more obvious the back side:
Did they forgot this intake ???
Another question concerning the air filter case:
according to parts list, a modification came with # 1019210
What was this?
and - sorry to ask - :
I know its in the 88 distinction list, but how was the cutoff number # 4006 for 2/3 hole VIN been identified?
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Alas, I cannot answer. I am sure I have tried a 2 hole top with a 3 hole bottom and they fit. The internal spacer fits both early and late so I can't see why they mate up. As for the Yamiya box, I haven't compared measurements with an original. Can anyone shed light on this
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According to my parts list, there are two different airbox lower halves. 17231-300-040 is for America, England and Australia whilst 17231-300-620 is for France, Germany, Holland. I believe the difference is the intake as you have observed.
The problem I have experienced with three hole upper and original lowers not mating correctly has been with the LPM replica airbox as supplied by David Silver Spares. The Yamiya airboxes are undoubtedly more accurate.
Chris R.
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Thanks very much!! Great info.
If so I think I can go for a 2 hole yamiya box complete.
It's an US bike so no need for a "German" bottom case.
@Gerard,
what do your French SC lower air box look like?
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Chris is always good for answering this type of question and he has done well 😊
I think going with a Yamiya airbox is a good call but whichever way is no biggie. 2 hole air boxes do come up from time to time but always at a price. You really only need the top so if a top came up you would be in clover.
I have a few new Yamiya air boxes so I can sell you one at a discount over Yamiya unless you are going for a painted one. I originally bought a painted airbox but was unhappy with the finish so sent it back. Probably a one off but I've never liked Yamiya paint finish or striping
Let me know and I'll unpack
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Kerry,
Great.
I will take upper and lower case and send them to Meno so it will match to the rest of the paint set.
Please check shipping and send me a PN.
BTW: need 2 hole top mounting hardware as well
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that better!
and more original..
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and more original..
Agree if US lower cases didn't have that hood.
I didn't knew that. So thanks to you to start discussing that!
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The air box did not have the hood, this hood was then added to France, after E-102XXXX it seems to me...???
It is just a part added and glued and not molded in a single part like the one that is on the front.
My air box has no hood behind.
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Looks like your Triple Tree unicorn is in shiny black?? There it is not correct... normally it should be in satin black... It is better to start from a matte black to obtain a satin black.
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The air box did not have the hood, this hood was then added to France, after E-102XXXX it seems to me...???
It is just a part added and glued and not molded in a single part like the one that is on the front.
My air box has no hood behind.
Maybe its 19210 as per parts book.
So do US diecast after 19210 have that intake?
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Looks like your Triple Tree unicorn is in shiny black?? There it is not correct... normally it should be in satin black... It is better to start from a matte black to obtain a satin black.
Yes, it's painted in same color as frame etc in satin gloss black (RAL 9005).
Should it be less shiny as frame?
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hi
yes it should be less shinny than frame!
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i go with a 60% gloss.
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The air box did not have the hood, this hood was then added to France, after E-102XXXX it seems to me...???
It is just a part added and glued and not molded in a single part like the one that is on the front.
My air box has no hood behind.
Maybe its 19210 as per parts book.
So do US diecast after 19210 have that intake?
I do not know for the US.. ??? I speak just for the French market I have a friend who has a K0 after 1020000 and there is not the hood behind ...
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I say that you must start from a matte black because if you load a little it will become satin, whereas if you leave a satin and you load a little it will become too shiny .....
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Loading = clear coat?
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Loading = clear coat?
load = a good layer (thickness)
My English has me !!! ;)
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Example : this top bridge repro Yamiya is still too shiny for me...
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Never heard the oil filter house, or for that matters sake the 2 to 3 hole air filter case were service replacements parts, just like carburettor slides! My air filter is still a severe cracked 2 hole. Kept together by broad red tape. Come spring it will be 47 years. Had at the time gone less than 8000 km.
Erling.
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Never heard the oil filter house, or for that matters sake the 2 to 3 hole air filter case were service replacements parts, just like carburettor slides! My air filter is still a severe cracked 2 hole. Kept together by broad red tape. Come spring it will be 47 years. Had at the time gone less than 8000 km.
Erling.
Erling, ;) Where did you see it and read it?
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I asked if the 2 hole case was replaced via service bulletin just as the carbs or the oil filter case. Later was replaced like mine is.
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Here is the genuine lower air box of #1016050.
A German K0.
Has both hoods so this is not the change with 19210 but the German/France/Dutch speciality as said by Mr. HONDASAN.
That red air box shown above with the two hoods was given to me by the seller of #1983 but oviously is not the genuine box of that bike.
Thanks for all the input.
Now waiting for Kerry´s box to be painted.
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Looks like your Triple Tree unicorn is in shiny black?? There it is not correct... normally it should be in satin black... It is better to start from a matte black to obtain a satin black.
done
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There you aimed right in the center !! ;)
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Thank you.
Three times thin matt + two times thin clear coat onto the satin gloss balck did it :)
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Only to pass the German MOT (TÜV) I have to have a speedo in km/h.
Marcel from CB750faces.com had it in his hands.
The face is still the genuine one, otherwise its restored by him including new filling.
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Engine is ready to be put into the frame.
Here is the outer clutch cover.
Putted it into the ultra sionic with some de-rust stuff. Before and after.
Its the heavy version, without piant inside.
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Inside pic to compare with light version (right)
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Engine so far
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Realized, that the breather cover is different to later version.
Is it a sandcast only part?
Edit: Parts list says up to #10337
Higher by about 5mm, inside without enforcement.
Later cover will not fit to sandcast valve cover.
Here you see K6 and SC engine to compare valve cover (note that different edge just under the breather cover) and the breather cover backside.
Will have to paint that breather cover.
What would be best color to match correct finish?
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Realized, that the breather cover is different to later version.
Is it a sandcast only part?
Edit: Parts list says up to #10337
Higher by about 5mm, inside without enforcement.
Later cover will not fit to sandcast valve cover.
Here you see K6 and SC engine to compare valve cover (note that different edge just under the breather cover) and the breather cover backside.
Will have to paint that breather cover.
What would be best color to match correct finish?
KP noted the distinction on the breather cover a number of years ago. if you search in Mark's 97 build, you'll find the Duplicolor paint type he used. i'm not at my shop now, i can't remember what color is used on the cover, in the USA it's a Duplicolor paint product.
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Thanks for hint, Steve.
Mark leads to this
http://cb750sandcastonly.com/smf_forum/index.php/topic,657.15.html (http://cb750sandcastonly.com/smf_forum/index.php/topic,657.15.html)
but unfortunatelly, I cant find a recommended paint number.
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Check this thread:
http://cb750sandcastonly.com/smf_forum/index.php/topic,366.480.html (http://cb750sandcastonly.com/smf_forum/index.php/topic,366.480.html)
Reply #483
Good luck,
Mark
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Thank you Mark.
Dont find that duplicolor Number here in Germany.
Sanded the cover, looks OK to me.
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Today I had big help from a friend.
Engine is in with the "lazy" method lying the engine on the ground.
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Steerring stem in...
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Upper tripple tree, front fork and wheel
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rear brake rod, rear fork, rear cushion and wheel ... I have a roller!
Didn`t manage to mount an endless chain. Not enpugh space although only 16 sprocket ?
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Regarding the 2 engine mount nuts on the front right side (hanger bracket). # 94001-08000-0S
According to Marks list, those are 8 x 1,25 x 12.
Only 12, is this correct?
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Regarding the 2 engine mount nuts on the front right side (hanger bracket). # 94001-08000-0S
According to Marks list, those are 8 x 1,25 x 12.
Only 12, is this correct?
referring to the 69.4 factory parts book:
item 9, pn 92200-08056-0A, BOLT, hex., 8x56, quantity 2.
the 3rd larger bolt, item 10, pn 92200-10050-0A, BOLT, hex., 10x50, quantity 1.
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yes, but I expected a hex 14 not 12
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Mine are hex 12 too and 14 mm on the 10mm bolt.
Erling.
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Only 12, is this correct?
If you're asking about the hex dimension, yes.
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Thanks, Mark.
Some work done
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Found a set of NOS handle bar switches
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................................
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...........................
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...........................
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.....................
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carbs in.
High resolution pics show it.....will need some new carb adj. srews
Where exactly do I met which cable band for the harness?
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Two steps forward and one step back...
Noticed, that the rear wheel wont spin free when I tied the axle.
Had to change rear wheel bearings today. Both were try, rusted and blocked.
Lended a special tool to fix the (new) bearing retainer
Everything OK now.
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Opened parcel that came in month ago...
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No Number pipes as recommended by you.
Left side provisionally
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Couldn't resist and mounted the new red sponge seat
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Still don't know what I am doing with this one here.
I don't dare to ruin the patina
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The patina went long ago on this machine. Re anodise it. When you have the old anodise stripped have it highly polished before reanodising it.
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Yes, agree. I think I will take another (later) one.
Adjusting screws after US-bath with some liquid de-ruster stuff
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My wife mounted the fuel cap and the latch. My fingers are too thick ::)
Brave girl.
Found a recessd ignition switch in my boxes ..
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.. and a set of mirrors. Have the patent number, MS and HM logo.
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Happy eastern... finally got a double cut fender without speedo cable holder hole.
Genuine part, new chrome
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Got alternator cover. Been polished too much.
What would you recommend to have it less shiny?
Do you clearcoat the cover?
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That side cover will not do at all. I have a really nice one I can swap you for ;D
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Got alternator cover. Been polished too much.
What would you recommend to have it less shiny?
Do you clearcoat the cover?
always difficult to tell in pics the degree of lustre. i'll stick my neck out and say it doesn't 'appear' overly-polished to me.... there is some good posts on buffing/polishing techniques some of the fellows use. Mark's #97 resto thread comes to mind. and there's some threads on clear coating procedures. if you do a key word search, they'll be there.
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Like a mirror
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yes, that's shiny. if you can find Mark's post in his thread, it'll tell you what he did to make his look like factory.
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That side cover will not do at all. I have a really nice one I can swap you for ;D
Yes. Realy odd that cover.
Siightly lighter than all my others.
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yes, that's shiny. if you can find Mark's post in his thread, it'll tell you what he did to make his look like factory.
Found it on page 32
May I quote Mark:
"I’m not going to be able to get much further until my polishing is done so I’m finally ready to get everything clear coated. I had someone help me out with a lot of it. I still had to dial it back a bit with the gray Scotchbrite. I’m going to have it clear coated in two batches (engine covers and frame parts). .. "
Gray scotchbrite + clear coat. Wont get "gray scotchbrite" here in G but maybe something similar. I assume that is ultra fine 800 or even higher 1500?
Is this aplied wet?
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Theres another thread somewhere by someone else. Ujenji ? There's also discussion about clearcoat application. I'd suggest contacting these fellows directly, off the forum, pm them or email.
I cant be of help. I made the covers on 232 look like mirrors and painted nothing on the engine. I wanted bling-bling.
On other 750's, i polished to a lustre i felt loiked like original. I used a clearcoat with hardener.
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Some indicator glasses I found on the bike
upper lft: stanley 045-6575 Japan
upper right: stanley 6-0345 SAE D 67 Japan (new)
lower left: VICTOR DH-I, SAE D4, USA
lower middle: CGC 41915, Japan
lower right: stanley 6 0345 SAE D 67 , E4....., Japan
Correct is upper right? Found a set of them NOS.
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Some indicator glasses I found on the bike
upper lft: stanley 045-6575 Japan
upper right: stanley 6-0345 SAE D 67 Japan (new)
lower left: VICTOR DH-I, SAE D4, USA
lower middle: CGC 41915, Japan
lower right: stanley 6 0345 SAE D 67 , E4....., Japan
Correct is upper right? Found a set of them NOS.
yes, upper right is correct.
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My experience getting the right level of polish and clearcoat. Mark clued me into some of this!
The short of it is that Honda did not polish these engine covers to chrome-like shine. Over polishing them is, therefore, to be avoided!
My technique:
1. Remove the old clearcoat with a paint remover. I use Aircraft paint remover. Just be sure to not let it sit on the aluminum too long; it can stain aluminum if left for an hour or more.
2. Wetsand out scratches with 400.
3. Once scratches are out, sand the entire part in the correct direction. Keep it in one direction. Cross-sanding will show up in the light!
4. Progress down to 1000 grit paper. All wetsanding of course.
5. Polish the part. No need to get it to a perfect mirror shine. Again, polish in the same direction that you sanded.
6. Here's the strange part that Mark clued me in to: go back and scratch the polished surface with grey scrotchbrite. This is seems crazy, but it will look great. Make sure you have gone over it a few times so the scotchbrite scratches are even.
7. Go over it again with white scotchbrite to smooth everything out just a bit. You should now have a part that shows the "grain" of your sanding, polishing and scotchbriting in the same light.
8. Clean the part with wax and grease remover. Super important to get the surface as clean as possible before paint!
9. Paint the black behind the honda logo if you are working on the alternator cover. Make sure you use high-heat engine paint. I use duplicolor engine paint and have been pleased.
10. Not its time to paint the clear coat. This is your final chance to get wax, grease, fingerprints and more off the metal! Paint in the shade so it has time to even out before drying and give it three medium coats with 5 to 10 minutes pauses between coats. The old paint guys always tell me to make the last coat look like one big drip! Avoid real drips, but the point is to not go too light or you will get a satin-look to the clear coat instead of a reflective finish.
That should do it!
The result:
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/6/5609/15437815677_46988242c7_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/pwbQKP)Ready to put in the frame. (https://flic.kr/p/pwbQKP) by samuelmroberts (https://www.flickr.com/photos/30242378@N05/), on Flickr
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Thank you both.
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Maybe the next person that ships you a part from the US can pack it with a gray scotchbrite?
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Maybe the next person that ships you a part from the US can pack it with a gray scotchbrite?
Good hint, but too late :-[
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Hi Uli,
Any new updates? Looking great.
DW
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I have a problem with the steering stem stop. It does not stop.
I think it comes from that washer under my new bearing (came with the bearing set)
It seems to be too thick and now the whole lower clamp is a bit too far away from the frame. So the stop gussets slide under the head frame
Here is a pic before it went into the frame.
I will have to take out the front fork but honestly I+m a little bit ........., well how do you say ?
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Then, I got a nice original 2-hole airbox from Steve.
In red with lovely patina but no cracks.
So I have a new dilemma:
take this one as a genuine part and have it new painted by Menno or take a new repro box?
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Go with the genuine box and have it painted, always better than re-pop.
IMHO,
DW
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Here it is
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No question, keep the original one and repaint this air box, it looks to be in great condition.
Best,
Duane
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I have a problem with the steering stem stop. It does not stop.
I think it comes from that washer under my new bearing (came with the bearing set)
It seems to be too thick and now the whole lower clamp is a bit too far away from the frame. So the stop gussets slide under the head frame
Here is a pic before it went into the frame.
I will have to take out the front fork but honestly I+m a little bit ........., well how do you say ?
I set up 2157 with the Timken bearing kit, if i remember correctly, i did not use that thick washer. For whatever the reason, the steering head would loosen up with some riding, i had to very slightly tighten the ring nut under the upper clamp a couple times before the steering head stopped loosening up. If i had it to do over again, i would have kept the original ball bearing setup, but the races were pitted and had some serious detent. I would suggest removing that thick washer and see how that affects your steering head setup.
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I have a problem with the steering stem stop. It does not stop.
I think it comes from that washer under my new bearing (came with the bearing set)
It seems to be too thick and now the whole lower clamp is a bit too far away from the frame. So the stop gussets slide under the head frame
Here is a pic before it went into the frame.
I will have to take out the front fork but honestly I+m a little bit ........., well how do you say ?
I set up 2157 with the Timken bearing kit, if i remember correctly, i did not use that thick washer. For whatever the reason, the steering head would loosen up with some riding, i had to very slightly tighten the ring nut under the upper clamp a couple times before the steering head stopped loosening up. If i had it to do over again, i would have kept the original ball bearing setup, but the races were pitted and had some serious detent. I would suggest removing that thick washer and see how that affects your steering head setup.
i think "pissed" is the word..... if it makes you feel any better, i understand. i assembled the spring forks on my 27 H-D incorrectly and had installed them to the rigid fork and then had installed the entire assembly to the steering head. all the parts were painted and so i had to be very careful to not scratch the paint when i took the forks apart. the spring forks have 2 springs in each tube along with 4 more heavy springs that go between the rigid and spring forks that have to be compressed using a special spring compressing tool. the springs were loaded with grease and are under a few hundred pounds of pressure in each leg. i had the plunger in each fork tube upside down, so i had to take them completely apart and put them in the correct direction.
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Shit happens and that sounds much more annoying.
I will try to fix that with 2,3 or 4 slim washers.
Got parcel today. Hex14 oil filter bolt came in.
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Curious.... I fitted a taper bearing head set and DID use the thick plain washer - and everything lined up just so. All I can remember is the kit had part number SSH750, not sure what brand it was.
Cheers - Chris
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Will check that next week.
And change steering lock when steering head is out.
Found number matching steering lock to my ignition switch here in Germany with key
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Sent airfilter case to Menno.
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The original air box, correct?
DW
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Yes, the genuine one from Steve.
Aarrggg... all the first pics from photobuckets are gone. Had to upload them again directly.
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Problem with the steering head stop fixed.
Changed the steering lock by chance and now have one same key for steering lock and ignition switch.
Bike is almost assembled. Waiting for the painted 2-hole airbox. Electric is working.
Engine to be fired up
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Managed to get her started (but dont manage to upload the video).
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She's beautiful, it's a good job ;) I think it lacks the chrome clamp that attaches with the horn and that serves to hold the tachymeter cable...To make it perfect, and this will prevent the needle of the tachymeter from making the yo-yo !!
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Good eye, Gerard! Didn´t notice that and will to search that part. Hope I have one.
First idling
https://vimeo.com/237077118
Tomorrow, we will check valves, igniton and do carb. synchro.
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Good eye, Gerard! Didn´t notice that and will to search that part. Hope I have one.
No... forget what I said, your bike is correct because this clamp arrived from 1003951 ....
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Yes,I just wanted to write that after looking in the parts book.
Anyway, and critics welcome. Have to take out the front wheel. Axle does not fit correctly.
BTW: is that bracket listed in the distinction list?
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Looks to me like you did a great job! Best of luck with 1983!
John
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Restoration is completed.
I want to thank all in this great forum for help, comments, critics and parts.
I couldn´t have done this wirhout you and the help of my friends.
I knew in the beginning it will be not easy but in the end it was a pleasure. All those helpful and pleasant fellows!
I will add some pics next week.
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Uli, i'm glad the club is able to help, you've done a fine job, and your active sharing is appreciated. it is folks like you that keep this forum alive, some of the members silent on this forum apparently do not share the passion such as you share with us; please take what i say as a high compliment. good luck with your upcoming show.
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Thank you, Steve.
Some pics I made yesterday
(http://www.bilder-upload.eu/thumb/7f63d3-1535459771.jpg) (http://www.bilder-upload.eu/show.php?file=7f63d3-1535459771.jpg)
(http://www.bilder-upload.eu/thumb/5a67dd-1535459904.jpg) (http://www.bilder-upload.eu/show.php?file=5a67dd-1535459904.jpg)
(http://www.bilder-upload.eu/thumb/2dcceb-1535459971.jpg) (http://www.bilder-upload.eu/show.php?file=2dcceb-1535459971.jpg)
(http://www.bilder-upload.eu/thumb/6e7744-1535460027.jpg) (http://www.bilder-upload.eu/show.php?file=6e7744-1535460027.jpg)
(http://www.bilder-upload.eu/thumb/7ad72c-1535460166.jpg) (http://www.bilder-upload.eu/show.php?file=7ad72c-1535460166.jpg)
(http://www.bilder-upload.eu/thumb/1d7b34-1535461075.jpg) (http://www.bilder-upload.eu/show.php?file=1d7b34-1535461075.jpg)
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Great photos Uli - congratulations on a fantastic build!
Steven.
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Superb Uli,
It's fantastic photo... :o :o I love it !!
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Thanks.
I made those myself during a photo session with a pro. There will come some great pics from him later.
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Bike is in the aktuel German "MOTORRAD Classic" and on cover
https://shop.motorpresse.de/motorrad-classic/hefte/einzelhefte/
(klick on "Aktuelle Ausgabe" to see more pics)
Pics were made in a stuio in Munich. About 150 detail pics, illuminating any detail, gave one pic.
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Congratulations. Your bike looks fantastic.
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Agree. The bike looks superb my friend
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Great pictures of a great machine !!
It's good to have respected the origin of the motor casings without painting...;)
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Hi Uli, I just wanted to check on your experience with the reproduction 5mm accelerator cable. Even though the length is different to an original 5mm cable, does it still work ok?
Thanks, Steven.
PS lovely work on the restoration. you should be proud it was in a magazine too!
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I know the relica cables are different but I got a 5mm with genuine cable lengh (from Gerard).
Not sure if the carbs operate perfect with the replicas.
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Uli my Friend ;) me in your superb bike restored I see only my cable of 5 mm and my screw with the 8 on the head !! ah ah ah ah...lol
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Uli my Friend ;) me in your superb bike restored I see only my cable of 5 mm and my screw with the 8 on the head !! ah ah ah ah...lol
... and the airfilter box from Steve, the uper front brake line from Kerry ....
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Uli my Friend ;) me in your superb bike restored I see only my cable of 5 mm and my screw with the 8 on the head !! ah ah ah ah...lol
... and the airfilter box from Steve, the uper front brake line from Kerry ....
isn't it amazing and wonderful how we're becoming a world community? finding really rare parts such as we do today was not even imaginable in the late 1980's!