Honda CB750 Sandcast

Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.


Topics - kp

Pages: 1 2 3 ... 17
1
"88 Model Distinctions" / SMOOTH FERRULE OiL LINE FITMENT
« on: February 13, 2023, 08:29:25 pm »
Smooth ferrule clamp webbed oil line is for sale supposedly off E5384. If correct this puts this feature further forward than current thinking. Anyone add to this please.

2
"88 Model Distinctions" / DATE CODES
« on: January 27, 2023, 06:21:28 pm »
Posting this here as it seems the appropriate place
Kawasaki owners/restorers place emphasis on correct date codes. I've posted previously about date codes but I want to stress how important it is to keep original parts where possible. Nearly everything has a date code on early Honda machines. This includes such insignificant items such as rectifiers and coils
The following are the codes to look for
44 = 1969
4 = 1969
5 = 1970
9 = 1969 or September or 9th day. Depends on the location of the code so 999 (90909) could mean 9 Sept 1969
A, B, C = Oct, Nov, Dec
X, Y, Z = Oct, Nov, Dec
You may also see symbols on parts which at first sight are meaningless but in fact are Kanji or Katakana symbols which can represent numbers as date codes. I'm not about to list these as there are hundreds so google Katakana to see the numerous symbols. Often seen on early rod ends and engine parts
Here are some coils with date codes often missed by restorers. If the coils are beggared then not a lot you can do Even later manufactured coils have a code 1x could be Oct 81 or 91

3
Gauges - Levers and Cables / Gauge/Meter Restoration Hint
« on: November 24, 2022, 04:27:42 pm »
If you intend restoring an instrument and want to use the same case here's something I do to refinish the rear plastic ring. This helps retain the innards and give an unmolested look to your restored part. Essentially it is just the method I use to remove the black retaining section of the gauge for future attachment. Photos say it all

4
General Discussion / Sam's Anatomy of a CB750 Sandcast
« on: May 28, 2022, 05:25:32 am »
Hey Sam. Your amazing photo has made it to the Z1 Historical Facebook site. How good is that. Amazing photo

5
Fenders (mudguards) and Seats / Seat Hinge and Lock Tank Bolts
« on: February 18, 2022, 09:26:30 pm »
I never stop learning. Had a need to find some plain head under seat hinge and locking tang bolts to fit to a new Yamiya repop seat. As some will know, Yamiya supplies the Tang and new bolts with their seats, however originals did not have any #8 on the head which Yamiya ones have. Anyway, I have 2 original red foam seats which have the original hinge hardware. On removal of one set of bolts I noticed thin black washers fitted to these bolts. I decided to check the second seat and sure enough these same thin black washers were fitted. They are made from a plastic material and I can only assume they were fitted to save the black paint from being scratched by the split washer. Here's a photo

6
General Discussion / FRAME and ENGINE NUMBERS - Correct Honda Font
« on: September 11, 2021, 04:42:37 pm »
I read on another site two posts of significance. The first post was by a fellow enthusiast who had a sandcast for sale and there was a claim the frame number was fake. The second post related to a guy who bought a sandcast only to find out the frame was restamped.
This is probably the most important are of sandcast ownership yet we have not referenced the topic enough IMHO
Anyway, this did get me curious so I searched the site and there is no specific reference/topic to correct Honda fonts. Sure there are references and discussion but no real single topic with lots of detail etc. For example, just because a stamping is out of alignment doesn't make it fake. Such variations are normal and I believe we need to have such reference documented, as well as engine fonts. There is also reference to the errors made during factory stampings so would be an obvious area to locate photos etc of this as well
So how about members provide photos of what they have and maybe Sam, can I ask you to set up a reference topic thread similar to the 88 Distinctions topic
I have a number of photo references of frame and engine numbers to contribute so others would be most welcomed. Not sure how we collect these photos so maybe Wayne and Sam have some suggestions
KP

7
Scammers and Forgeries / Fake 28 Caps
« on: April 18, 2021, 03:52:24 am »
Let everyone know that these are fakes and not original 28 caps. If you bought them, get your money back as they are not real and horrendously overpriced. Report the fraud to eBay not that they will do anything. No springs, no brass screw adjusters, no slides and the rings aren't even correct
You've been warned
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Honda-CB750-1969-Sandcast-5mm-28-Carb-Tops-Fully-Refurbished-/144012199592?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286

8
General Discussion / Fake #28 Caps
« on: April 18, 2021, 03:49:04 am »
These caps are sold as early originals. They are fakes. Anyone a member of the Sandcast Facebook forum, please warn everybody
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Honda-CB750-1969-Sandcast-5mm-28-Carb-Tops-Fully-Refurbished-/144012199592?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286

9
Here's the link
https://www.facebook.com/photo?fbid=10218270700667766&set=pcb.3572741779473894
Well, better photos of this machine have now been posted.
Frame 775 Engine 794
Not a single or double digit bike, not even an early to middling 3 digit bike. We have a latish 3 digit bike and the asking price is US$50,000
You would think, for the price, this must be a very original and/or special bike. Alas; it is neither. In fact it is a pretty poor example of what the owner likes to describe as a hmmm?
Let me say this bike is well off in the high end sandcast stakes and IMHO is around $20k to $25K overpriced. The red bike currently on offer on eBay is a way better example and worth more.
So you have a look and you will find lots wrong with this machine and here are a few very important, to a 3 digit sandcast, non-original items. There will be some I've missed, but the lack of good photos and lack of photos of key areas are missing. I want to see photos of the bike, not the local fishing precinct.
Oil Hoses are a fail
Brake Pedal is off a later model K0/K1 (not able to really confirm correct from photos)
Engine Oil Gallery Plug is a fail
Clutch Cable is a fail
Exhaust is incorrect for any sandcast - fail
Alternator Cover is a fail
Oil Filter Bolt @17mm is a fail
Seat is a fail
Tank Fuel Cap Lock = fail
Fuel Tank Trim is a definite fail
Battery Box Washers is a fail (generally under seat is a fail)
What's with the tool tray
Air Box Rubbers is a fail
Tacho Cable is a fake
Speedo Cable is a fail
Indicator lenses = fail
Spokes and Nipples on front and rear are "big fails"
Is the rear rim a rolled rear rim???
Welded front fender stay Methinks a NOS replacement isn't hard to find but for $50k big ones, welding (unchromed at that) will do
Rubber boot on Master Cylinder is "Oh So Correct" - Nar ..... a fail
Check out the chain adjuster bolts. Honda special order ones no doubt
Rear Sprocket is a fail
Wiring is a mess
Front Disc is a mess
Some bolts are wrong
I'm getting a headache

10
Links to Auctions and Classifieds / Not So Good Or Cheap Sandcast
« on: December 16, 2020, 04:49:06 am »
https://www.leboncoin.fr/motos/1895743999.htm?fbclid=IwAR0lybUk5TzQ4plrnRmUnMPLagndz4aKmfiAyMXrStyLDzXx1tHL-nP1OxE

The seller of this bike had a bit to say about my #28 when for sale and made specific mention of the high price amongst other neg things.
Well here's a 700 group bike which he's asking around US$50k for. Hmmm??? For that sort of money I would not only expect but demand it be correct, above all, I would like to have access to more than 3 low res photos. The bike is sad for this sort of money and has much fakeness to go with the high price tag.
I'll let you work out the fakeness, and there is much to spot, and that's with just 3 low res pics to work from. A few include the tacho cable, spokes and exhaust heat shields to name a few. Oh and the production of this bike would be around week 3 in April and not week 1 of March as many think.

11
Links to Auctions and Classifieds / Cheap Sandcast
« on: December 04, 2020, 03:26:52 pm »
If you picked this medium number up for a bit less you'd be doing OK. Doesn't need much. Has socket key, instruments, left horn, round rear etc etc. Needs correct front mudguard, side covers, seat, mirrors and you'd have a nice close to original original rider. Can't say about the tank.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1969-Honda-CB/284103285705?hash=item4225e01bc9:g:fVgAAOSwOkRfsrpi

12
General Discussion / 88 Model Distinctions Section Amendments
« on: November 16, 2020, 06:50:20 am »
This area needs a long overdue tidy up both in terms of updated data and removal of the many double up distinctions. The LH horn mount gets mentioned around 3 or 4 times by way of example. Also, the fat exhaust clamps are mentioned a few times. This is not being critical as I have contributed as much as anyone to this section, it's just time for a critique and update.
I've reviewed and amended/updated a number of distinctions tonight and several more need to be looked at. I've also added some riders on some distinctions as there is new evidence coming to light every year and we need to just add some clarity. For example the thin lip 9 hole cover was stated to have been fitted up to around frame 800. Well, I've seen many later engines with thin lip 9 hole covers in recent years and a good example is E1788 currently for sale on eBay. Again this is not a criticism, just updating the information we had when the knowledge base went up. I'm sure there are later engines out there with a thin lip 9 hole cover.
Given the ownership coverage of known original sandcasts by members, I would ask owners to review the list on this site and advise any things that you believe need to change. One area not on our list, and I believe it should feature, relates to instrument drives. We know there are at least 3 types of sand-cast instrument drives however the frame number changes would be good to know, given the expense of these things in recent years. I have views on this but little in the way of actual evidence. A pictorial reference would be even better.  I volunteered to do this many years ago and I've provided numerous photo depictions of those distinctions over the years but more contribution is needed. I don't own enough parts or machines to photographically identify all these distinctions. Help with this is needed.

13
General Discussion / Covering on Original Levers
« on: November 07, 2020, 04:51:07 pm »
I'm putting this post in general discussion hoping to get some responses.
I want to keep my original levers but the factory covering has deteriorated on most and so I have to either replace the lever, use as is or restore the covering. Original levers are definitely different to later levers
My question is -  does anyone know what the original covering was/is made from. Some say plastic, some say they were dipped, but I'm lost on this one and certainly not sure what was used.
I do believe that the original covering yellows over time. I have a few NOS levers and some seem to be clear and others seem to be at the beginning of the yellowing phase. The only thing I can think of that yellows over time is clear enamel paint
Anyone have any thoughts or information on this

14
How do you pick a painted reproduction side cover from a NOS original? Not so easy
I had a box of my NOS side covers out so thought I show the identification differences. I've been meaning to do this for years now and had some time so here ya go
Without doubt, the Yamiya reproduction side cover is a nice piece of work so much so I've seen many of these for sale as NOS items. Personally I don't think the paint on a Yamiya cover is correct but when combined with a complete Yamiya paint set it looks great.
OK. First, all reproduction covers do not have the "front face" mould mark/nipple found between the side cover badge holes. All NOS covers have this feature A bit hard to identify when a badge is fitted though.
Second, the inside of the covers tell a better story. The RH reproduction cover has 2 x boxed and 1 x pointed casting lines around the mount areas and is the easiest way to pick a non original right side cover (see photo). Also the mould nipples are raised but flat encircled by a ring depression
NOTE: Many believe NOS Honda covers had a black screen but this isn't so Later made covers all had silver screens same as Yamiya so just seeing a silver screen doesn't make it a reproduction. Indeed, some pre barcode NOS covers had silver screens. Only early made NOS covers had black screens and Yamiya covers with screens are all silver in color. My later NOS cover screens will be painted black more for accuracy and aesthetics than anything else.
Feel free to correct me if I've got something wrong.
Hope this is of use.

15
I think one of the ongoing arguments/debates/opinions with restorers is what color shade for candy blue/green and candy red is correct. For what it's worth, I actually don't think the colours were 100% the same throughout the 1969/70 production, but how many people come up and say that color is too light or too dark or even spot on.
I have just picked up my latest paint work in Candy Blue Green and wanted to compare it with the various NOS and original pieces I have. I have an early sandcast with 100% original blue green paint plus a half dozen NOS Honda side covers and a 2 NOS blue green headlight shells (one parts tag is dated 1969). My intent was to use the NOS side covers and headlight shell and have it all matched to them. Unfortunately the tank, which had the original paint, needed some repairs so couldn't be restored. We used the side covers, shells and under tank/emblems color shade to see what was the best match. After comparing colours and discussing with the painter it was decided to match to the 1969 headlight shell/original tank color. This shell was kept in its original box so we figured it would be the least affected by the sun even when compared to the tank. The side covers were all manufactured in different times. Anyway I decided to put this new paint set next to a NOS cover as well as a side cover from my early sandcast. This side cover had the original oil decal so I know it's original to the bike. Also the bike was kept under cover although it would have been subject to some color fade after 50 years.
The digital photo does alter the blue green colour slightly, but as these are all in the one digital shot, I'm thinking the shade variations are still seen.
The original cover has the badge attached and the NOS side cover is at the bottom. The NOS side cover is a little lighter as we saw at the paint shop whereas the original used side cover is very close, which makes me happy happy happy. I had that NOS shell as well as a NOS side cover repainted for this set. Can you believe anybody would paint an unused factory blue green side cover and shell  :(
I've also taken a photo of several NOS side covers to show how much the blue green color varies. Hope this is of interest

Pages: 1 2 3 ... 17