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Author Topic: Restoration of 5369  (Read 20683 times)
chrisnoel
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« Reply #30 on: December 08, 2014, 08:15:27 PM »

I notice the fender is separated from the bracket.  Have you sourced rivets?  I'll be looking for stainless over the next week.  Next is nicely asking a friend with experience in setting cold rivets for a favor so as not to ruin the new chrome. 
 
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UK Pete
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« Reply #31 on: December 09, 2014, 03:01:21 PM »

I think my Front guard is too far gone for me to repair, all i have is the blade, and it needs straightening then chroming , i will probably try to source a better one to restore, if you source rivets let me know as i could always buy as later front guard and rob the parts i need
pete
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chrisnoel
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« Reply #32 on: December 09, 2014, 08:41:44 PM »

http://www.rivetsinstock.com/rivets/solid-rivets/small-solid-rivets/round-head-solid-rivets.html

Here's where I'm going to try to get some rivets.  I'll check the dimensions and compare them to the closest they have and see if I can get some in stainless from their sales office.  I may end up buying a hundred just to get the four I need. 

I have a dozen new screws for the stay brackets.  They have a tiny x in them as compared to the original dot and are slightly long though.  This is what is available from the dealer these days.   
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Honda CB750 Sandcast Forum
« Reply #32 on: December 09, 2014, 08:41:44 PM »

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UK Pete
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« Reply #33 on: December 10, 2014, 04:36:14 AM »

This seems like a useful kit for the stays chris    http://r.ebay.com/k8j5Vf
i would be interested in some rivets if you buy a job lot
pete
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vnz00
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« Reply #34 on: December 12, 2014, 05:10:39 AM »

Guys try Jaycee rivets in the USA - you might need to contact them and ask for a shipping price to the UK as the site prices are crazy. Might mot be an issue though if Chris N can buy. 

Re-riveting is possibly a two person job, using a setting tool and a long punch to peen it.  Not a pleasant job whacking away with a hammer, knowing what's at stake if you miss!  Take your time and you'll be surprised.

The length is fiddly - the rivet will compress and spread to fill the hole then peen over on top. So a once long rivet might end up short. That spread is important though - the last thing you want is a poor job and movement between the blade and bracket.

Good luck, Steven.
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chrisnoel
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« Reply #35 on: December 21, 2014, 02:53:33 PM »

The link above is for Jay Cee Rivets.   Went with the 3/8 long 3/16 dia. stainless rivets.  Had to use a 3/8 round end mill to make a hole in the back up plate steel.  Made a driver out of 1/2" drill stock rod with an offset and adapted it to an air hammer.  Had to anneal and temper it several times to get it harder than the 18-8 grade rivets.  Luckily making the offset required several re-heats anyways. Definitely was a two person job that required a metal lathe and the knowledge of my friend.  Was absolutely worth having the chrome around the rivets come out nice.  Would have had blemishes in the chrome in this area otherwise. 
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UK Pete
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« Reply #36 on: September 23, 2015, 11:10:32 AM »

Hi all i have got moving on the sandcast project again, i had a fellow sohc enthusiast (richard) kindly heiped me out and made me up some hinges which i welded on the other day, the welds are deliberately rough to match the rest of the 1969 welds on the frame which tbh are shocking



Once lined up using a jig richard made me from his frame i welded up and primed



Then i hung the frame up and sprayed the bugger myself, i just dont trust other peoples work and have had to many disappointments in the past, it has come out great and the gloss level is a perfect match for an original NOS footpeg which i used for reference, a couple of bloody fly's landed on the drying paint so i have that to deal with but that is easily done,







So i have the battery box, tool tray, footpegs, and swing arm to do next, then i can crack on with other bits, it would be nice to get the engine done , so i will report back with the progress on that when i get stuck in
pete

« Last Edit: September 23, 2015, 11:19:53 AM by UK Pete » Logged

UK Pete
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« Reply #37 on: October 21, 2015, 01:46:38 PM »

I removed my vin tag carefully before spraying, but it got creased up and did not look like it could be salvaged, so i bought a repro vin tag although close its not the same but you would have to put them side by side to notice, however today i managed to clean all the glue off the back, and then rolled a spoon over the back of the tag with the front face down on a perfectly smooth hard surface, and i managed to iron out most of the creasing, just leaving a few age related wear marks and very minor creasing marks
Here is my dilema do put the original on or do i use the repro, what do you guys recon
original

original


Repro still with protective film on
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Sgt.Pinback
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« Reply #38 on: October 21, 2015, 03:07:59 PM »

The original one of course! The other one is only repro.

You know it.

 We know it.....
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Cheers, Uli (Leonberg, Germany)
markb
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« Reply #39 on: October 21, 2015, 03:34:13 PM »

That looks like a pretty decent repro.  Where did you get it?
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Mark B
1969 CB750 sandcast #97 current project Restoration thread link
1969 CB750 sandcaxt #576 next project
1969 CB750 sandcast #1553 next project after that
1969 CB750 sandcast #1990 next project after that
1969 CB750 sandcast #5383 Sold Restoration thread link
1970 CB750 K0 restored
2010 H-D Tri Glide Ultra Classic (Huh?)
UK Pete
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« Reply #40 on: October 21, 2015, 04:19:34 PM »

Hear you go this is where i got it
HEADTUBE TAG  / REPRO DECAL http://r.ebay.com/s9Wqfg

pete
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Steve Swan
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« Reply #41 on: October 21, 2015, 04:53:00 PM »

even though the tag has no vin info on it, i try to leave them on frame, i mask them off including edges with a layer of electrical tape and then cover with masking tape.  i've been lucky none of the tags have been so rough they need replaced.  myself, i'd go with original. 
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UK Pete
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« Reply #42 on: February 13, 2016, 01:14:58 PM »

I had a go at restoring my sandcast caliper today, i stripped it degreased it sanded out any scratches then sprayed it up , the caliper and the arm are silver the pivot bracket is polished and clear coated as per original, i have to say i feel really satisfied with the results, i shall dig out my new parts and rebuild it all tomorrow





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UK Pete
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« Reply #43 on: June 23, 2016, 08:43:50 AM »

Hi All , getting my sandcast tank out and ready to be sprayed i thought i would check and see if there was a date code like my K0 had, and yes i found it, would it be the 15th of the 5th month ?, also what a strange cap arrangement, it has a secondary pressure relief cap, it looks like it may have come from another bikes petrol cap, the cap itself is sandcast style  antimony as yamiya calls it






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Erling
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« Reply #44 on: June 24, 2016, 06:23:52 AM »

On my tank these numbers say: 4 6 2!
What to make out of that?
Oil tank say 5 2 7.
Erling.
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