Bringing 1983 / 2005 back to live

Sgt.Pinback · **Reply #105 on:** July 16, 2016, 01:38:18 pm

Got back rear 2-hole fender with new chrome.

Quick assembly, so you wont see the dings under the rear light holder

Sgt.Pinback · **Reply #106 on:** July 22, 2016, 02:16:55 pm

Cleaned, de-rusted and prepared for zinc plating with a brass-brush bolts, nuts, washers, springs and other parts

Sgt.Pinback · **Reply #107 on:** July 22, 2016, 02:25:13 pm

Cleaned the rear brake and prepared wheels for new spokes and re- chroming.

Rear hub is old two hole.

Still the KO dampers in good condition in.

Brake panel has casting date 5 - 27.

Sgt.Pinback · **Reply #108 on:** July 23, 2016, 02:14:25 pm

Started cleaning the engine by myself.

Bigger part had been broken out some day. That has to be fixed.

Lower engine case had been welded, I assume due to a broken chain.

Sgt.Pinback · **Reply #109 on:** July 23, 2016, 02:18:48 pm

Here is the tool kit.

Before cleaning I thought about new zinc plating it, but now will keep it at it is.

File point is missing. Does anybody has a spare one? Or knows where to get one?

Could swap with a spare red grip.

Sgt.Pinback · **Reply #110 on:** August 04, 2016, 01:38:54 pm

Sad, no one has.

Bought an overhaul set for the master cylinder and replaced that and seal for brake caliper.

Thats what came out of the master cylinder (and decided to keep the patina and not to anodize it)

Sgt.Pinback · **Reply #111 on:** August 04, 2016, 01:42:25 pm

Fork legs before work on it.

Looking for pics and hints with correct finish.

Sgt.Pinback · **Reply #112 on:** August 04, 2016, 01:57:02 pm

Regarding rear wheel. I have a set of NOS dampers, but they are without those holes.

Which ones are correct, when did they change that?

kp · **Reply #113 on:** August 04, 2016, 03:27:10 pm

Uli,
There are several articles on this site to help with the fork outer finish as well as a topic on damper rubbers. There is also a "How To" by Vic World which I believe can be accessed via a link.

PS auto correct changed Uli to Ali.

Erling · **Reply #114 on:** August 06, 2016, 01:30:32 am

Those solid rubber dampers are to me the original ones.
When they were changed, free of charge, I do not remember.
Think Markb asked for a set in his restoration of 97!
Your repaired crank case might not be due to a completely broken chain.
Just a loose chain stretching over the front sprocket might do it.
Have experienced that too.
On another occasion mine just rolled off with no damage to anything.
Of all places starting out of a gas station north of Würthburg Germany.
On my way to Misano GP in Italy.
Had an extra chain, though not intended for use till return run to Danmark!
Erling.

4pots1969 · **Reply #115 on:** August 06, 2016, 05:19:55 am

Quote from: Erling on August 06, 2016, 01:30:32 am

Those solid rubber dampers are to me the original ones.
When they were changed, free of charge, I do not remember.
Think Markb asked for a set in his restoration of 97!
Your repaired crank case might not be due to a completely broken chain.
Just a loose chain stretching over the front sprocket might do it.
Have experienced that too.
On another occasion mine just rolled off with no damage to anything.
Of all places starting out of a gas station north of Würthburg Germany.
On my way to Misano GP in Italy.
Had an extra chain, though not intended for use till return run to Danmark!
Erling.

Erling

Yes, it happened to one of my friend in October 69 its Sandcast... It was dark, I followed him and there was a shower of sparks on the road .... its chain had broken and there I think it was his lucky day because the chain occurred without breaking anything .... We had to look for the chain has the headlights.
At the same time I write.. there I see very clearly this video in my head...
This remains very good memories...

Sgt.Pinback · **Reply #116 on:** August 06, 2016, 05:23:28 am

Thanks for input, gentlemen.

Still not sure at which VIN they changed the rubbers to those with holes.

A good friend of mine is restoring a diecast, VIN 9.2xx, and it has these solid rubbers without holes.
This bike had never seen a HONDA workshop, so no official replacements and still has the "28" carbs.

So I am pretty sure that all SC originally had the solid version.

kp · **Reply #117 on:** August 06, 2016, 03:42:51 pm

http://cb750sandcastonly.com/smf_forum/index.php/topic,1110.0.html

Erling · **Reply #118 on:** August 07, 2016, 08:34:03 am

4pots 1969.
Had this friend of yours had sticking throttle slides?
In my day I was the only one in town on a CB750.
So never really had anyone to talk "daily" problems with.
Think I have a post card dated Oct '69 from Honda.
They had forwarded my problem to the distributor of my area!
Not a word about what it was.
Come to think about it now some explaining of holes in centre of clutch hub to ease plate separate!
Neither do I remember having been called to dealer for some help.
But of cause I had been to dealer asking for help before writing to Japan.
Just felt they had no detailed knowledge of this new bike on the market.
More or less similar to my present day ride: a Fireblade.
Now 170K km had gear change problems from day one, now more than 20 years ago.
Dealer just told me to learn to change gear properly when on a Honda!
And I had at the time done maybe half a million km!
Though mostly on a flat twin BMW.
Sandcast got a Seeley frame after '78. That made it a delight to ride.
With 4 into one exhaust. Pipes don't touch so easily.
Engine of the Blade runs silky smooth as ever.
But it jumps out of fourth gear! Not on the overrun though.
After 10 years I wrote to Japan asking them to tell dealer what to do.
Was duely answeed: go to the Honda of your area, Where of cause I had already been.
Then a friend advised me on to Fireblade.org.
A handful of owners had similar problem!
And solutions which I was not quite sure of interpreting correct.
Went to the dealer with this knowledge.
He just asked me to leave his place and ask those people for help!
Erling.

Steve Swan · **Reply #119 on:** August 07, 2016, 08:51:11 am

Honda Factory Service Bulletin, #15, 3/16/70, discussues replacement of rear wheel rubber dampers beginning vin 1 through 16,997. the sketch on page 8 of this bulletin shows the replacement dampers having holes in them. of course, these are sketches, yet they also depict the replacement dampers being same sized, unlike the early dampers being the "4 fat/4 thin" type.