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Author Topic: Restoring old pipes.  (Read 2987 times)
chrisnoel
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« on: February 17, 2010, 11:49:25 AM »

What happened to that question about fixing the rust spot on the bottom of the un-numbered pipe?

I was also wondering about restoring pipes. Mine are un-numbered but need work. All of mine have dents, Two of them have conciderable rust damage, and one of them is bent on the header end. Another is bent neer the foot rest support.

Is thier any one who can resurect such badly damaged pipes? I personaly think it would be worth more than the cost of a new set of HM-300's to restore an original set.
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736cc
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« Reply #1 on: February 17, 2010, 11:49:58 AM »

Dents can't be fixed. Personally, I prefer rust over dents. Dents remind me of crashes; rust comes w/ the aging process and remind me of EVERY FRIGGIN SANDCAST I FIND HAS SCUZZY ROTTEN PIPES WITH FILTHY ROTTEN RAT HOLES BIG ENOUGH TO SEE CHINA THRU- I'M MAD AS HELL AND AIN'T GONNA TAKE IT ANYMORE!!!!!!!!!!!
AND WHILE I'M AT IT, WHY DO THEY ALWAYS SEEM TO COME WITH HARLEY REAR WHEELS, KING QUEEN SEATS, HI BARS, PAISLEY BROWN PSYCHODELIC PAINT JOBS, CHROME CHAIN GUARDS AND BOBBED FRONT FENDERS
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kp
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« Reply #2 on: February 17, 2010, 11:50:41 AM »

Repairing your old pipe is not such a major issue if you can locate a good motorcycle exhaust specialist and I would urge you to do this as these pipes are irreplacable. Sure you can get a new set of HM300s but unstamped early pipes are unstamped early pipes. Getting to the rust inside the pipe is no real drama, the drama is sealing the rust holes and outlets so the rust cleaner can do it's work. I find black sikaflex is the ducks nuts for this job. You can get this or similar product from a marine specialty house. There are 3 ways I use to chemically clean rust off metal from the inside, and this will also work for tanks, side and centre stands, bolts and even your tools. First method is to used a mild solution of acid, however unless you are expert I would not recommend this as you have to know when to stop. AM has this problem when he sees a carton of Fosters. Second is to use a product called "rustoff" which is available from specialty automotive and paint houses. This works a treat and will clean the stains off grandmas undies. Just the trick for that tank as well. It works through chemical reaction (I'm right up there with my Chemistry) with the rust and leaves the metal with a dull sheen. Third method, and very effective, is to use molasses. This is as good as anything around to clean rust off steel and iron. It will need to be left in contact with the metal from 1 to 3 weeks. Mix the molasses 1/2 and 1/2 with water. May take a little effort to find though.
Finally, and after you have done a thorough rinsing in water to remove any trace of the rustoff or molasses, YOU MUST use a non acidic rust converter to neutralise further chemical reactions and stop any rust formation.
You're now ready to take your pipe in for repair or rechroming. If this seems all too hard, when you toss those old unstamped pipes out .... pick me KP  Cool
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Yabba Dabba KP
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« Reply #2 on: February 17, 2010, 11:50:41 AM »

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736cc
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« Reply #3 on: February 17, 2010, 11:51:14 AM »

....molasses?
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kp
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« Reply #4 on: February 17, 2010, 11:51:41 AM »

Ah you're back with us 736cc. Bar close early tonight KP:-*
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Yabba Dabba KP
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« Reply #5 on: February 17, 2010, 11:52:21 AM »

I've used molasses to remove rust from parts for years. It is really good for unsticking seized motors. I had an old 1930s RL HD with a stuck motor. I Let the molasses sit for a few months and no more stuck motor. I have no idea why this works and I'd love to know how the first person that used molasses figured this out. Something much stronger than Fosters is the only way I could ever come up with molasses as a rust remover. It works as good as any other method, although slow, with no damage to the metal itself like acid could do. Eli
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chrisnoel
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« Reply #6 on: February 17, 2010, 11:53:28 AM »

I like to use vinegar for rust removal. It is not as strong as the acid that comes from the Creem kit but the acid is the same "acedic acid". I just got done soaking my shock springs in it. Some very light scrubing with a stainless brush, and the rust is gone, but the chrome is still thier. I used a nice mild base to stop the reaction "dish soap".

I understand now how to get the rust out of my pipes. What next? They need to be straigtened, patched, and have dents removed. For this I would really like to be recomened to a nice repair person.

As I do not have money coming out of my rear I like to do these things in stages. It took me all summer to save up to have my frame done and buy a rolled edge rim + spokes. Once I contact a person to get a quote on repairing the pipes I'll save every spare dollar till I get enough.
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