Honda CB750 Sandcast

Questions and pics of newly arrived sandcast

42barab · 64 · 20468

kp

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That wrinkle tank is not worth $40 let alone $400
Yabba Dabba KP


vnz00

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I think that's a new ebay feature - it automatically links you to a 'similar' item to the original one you were looking at.  You have to click on the 'listing' link to go to the actual item.  Im not a fan of the new feature....


kp

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John,
I had already posted that same link in a previous post pointing out it was the later Z1 style (ie Not to be confused with a real sandcast instrument)
http://cb750sandcastonly.com/smf_forum/index.php/topic,2041.msg14780.html#msg14780
Yabba Dabba KP


42barab

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kp  I thought it was a different listing. But it sold right after I posted my question about it.  Maybe should have PM'd  the question.  Thank you for your feedback.    J


4pots1969

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Hello Uli,
Can you give me a picture of the HMCB750 baffles on the exhaust side?
Thanks ;)


Sgt.Pinback

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Come ça?
« Last Edit: June 26, 2018, 02:36:11 pm by Sgt.Pinback »
Cheers, Uli (Leonberg, Germany)



kp

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You guys need to take those baffles down to the rivers Seine and Rhine and bid them a Bon Voyage  ;D Using those baffles will suffocate your engine and the rider
Yabba Dabba KP


42barab

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On 2659, discovered a very slow brake fluid leak dripping from the bottom of the lever hinge bolt.  Can't get a grip on the snap ring with the snap ring pliers because the plunger is in the way.  Some videos say to take pressure off the ring by depressing the plunger, and pry the ring out with a pick, but that didn't work.  If I could find a way to hold the plunger down, I might be able to get a proper grip on the snap ring.  Need some ideas.

Also, attached pics show the bike's master cylinder on the right and one I picked up at a swap meet on the left.  The bike's has markings inside and on the bottom, a very shiny finish inside, and seems to have a painted finish, which smudges and comes off easily with brake fluid or carb cleaner.  The metal under the paint appears gray, while I think the left pic shows an anodized finish.  I'm wondering if either is sandcast-correct?  What is the correct finish?


42barab

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Made some progress today.  With a vice, a pick, and a chopstick managed to pry the snap ring out.  The question of correctness still remains.  On to cleaning.


42barab

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Another question about the master cylinder assembly, or more specifically, the brake lever.  I have a 69 parts book that shows a lever adjustment screw (45518-300-003) with a locknut (94002-08000-0S) on the underside of the lever bracket.  Both Yamiya and Partzilla show a no-adjustment lever stop (sans PN or description), and an inset box with the adjuster design.  Yamiya lists a "Lever System Tuning Set" that includes the lever stop and some bolts.  The option diagrams show a "tongued washer (45525-300-000) and Partzilla notes "Use from SN 1027687".  The lever stop design is on my bike.  Was the lever adjuster an option or part of an evolving design?  And which would be correct for 2659?


42barab

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Here are pics from the Yamiya and the Partzilla sites.


kp

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Answers one of your questions
http://cb750sandcastonly.com/smf_forum/index.php/topic,52.0.html

The lever adjustment screw and lock nut is common to Master Cylinders (MC) of all K0 bikes
The MC on the right (poorly painted) should be black anodised as are all the K0 MCs
K0 MC have no casting numbers/letters on the outer housing so that one is not K0
The mirror stem receiver of the K0 MC is shorter in height to the K1 onwards
Most questions have answers throughout the forum posts and on the website
I would recommend you take the time to read Marks's 97 restoration story. This nearly 50 page restoration story is, IMHO, a pocket guide to most of the nuances found on a sandcast motorcycle even if it relates to an early frame number
There is also the SOOC website which still has much relevant information. A good photo of the shorter height mirror receiver awaits  ;D
Yabba Dabba KP



42barab

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I think the adjustment screw can be bought.  Does it thread into a MC perch that originally had just a stop, or did Honda produce a perch just for the adjustment screw design.

Also, I think I need to smooth the MC's cylinder bore a bit, just to be sure.  I bought a 1/2" flexible honing brush (small balls wrapped around a wire core) with a grit of 320.  If this is too abrasive, what size hone and what grit should be used?  Thanks