Anodize

[chrisnoel]

Are the left and right controls and master cylinder anodized? I took mine down to just the metal pieces and ran down to an anodize shop in Fort Collins Colorado. The manager calls me a few days later and says we can't anodize this grade of aluminum unless it is freshly cast. Once we strip it and try to re-anodize it the metal will pit and you wont be happy with the results..... Oh by the way this old coating on your pieces is paint not anodize..... You should just get these things powder coated or painted.

Is he full of poop? If so do you know someplace "preferably in N. Colorado that I can get them striped and anodized.

Thanks.

[736cc]

I hear those parts are "parkerized". What that is, I have no idea.

[Steve Swan]

Parkerizing is a process Harley-Davidson started using in the 1920's to put an anti-corrosive finish on bolts and various other parts. Parkerizing was a more simple process than Cadmium Plating, as The Cad process required the use of cyanide. Parkerizing is a fairly simple hand process, using a Manganese or a Zinc phosphate solution to produce either a black or a gray finish. Parkerizing can only be done on Ferrous metals; will not work with metals such as Stainless, Brass, Copper or Aluminium. The Parkerized color is also affected by the hardness of the steel. Any good gun shop will sell Parkerizing materials. Parkerizing is also known as Phosphating and has been around since the 1800's.

[elisent]

Chris, I've Parkerized HD parts at home. Just wait till the old lady is out for awhile as you have to use an oven. These parts could be satin painted. Anodized parts wouldn't wear like my original KO triple tree does. Anodizing is part of the metal. If Andy says Parkerized it is worth taking a look at as he is much more knowledgable on 750s than myself. As Steve said Cad uses very toxic chemicals. I'm still ready for the tumors from me not knowing what Cad was and bead blasting while breathing it in. Parkerizing does have a similar patina to annodized parts. Like cad it is basically a lubricant to stop corrosion. I don't believe parkerizing or cad plating had any relevance in Japanese bikes. Zinc was a cheaper and easier anti corrosive. Parkerizing is mainly a gun finish these days and Cadmium is only used for aircraft and restoration that I know of. I'm really trying to learn the correct finishes on these parts
so any info. would be apreciated. From what I know about early japanese manufactoring, paint would make sense. The only argument to this is anodizing is clear. Black is added. The way the sun fades the dye would lead me against paint. I would think I would see more chipped paint controls than evenly faded. I'd love to see this cleared up. Eli

[kp]

Eli, you're right, it's not paint and I tend to think it's either anodise or black chrome KP

[chrisnoel]

Nice to see you here Eli..... I was thinking anodize because mine are defenitely sun faded to clear. The only other thing that makes sense to me is the electrostatice enamel that was on everything else. But my controls were the only thing that faded. If I find a shop that will do it I'm going to go with anodize. If not I'll just have them powder coated then find NOS replacements later.

[elisent]

Chris, Isn't electrostatic enamel powder coating? If you powder coat the controls remember that it is hard to reverse. Go to a really good powder coater that can dull the black. Even then Powder has to glossy a finish to replicate the finish on Honda controls. I would paint a satin black. Looks sorta close and easily reversible. I still think these controls are anodized. I'm working with a friend that is a plater and bike collector here in Philadelphia. Now that I've gotten the Honda bug he is on the excitement program. Owns a bunch of 750s that have been sitting. We are trying to match faded controls by adding and subtracting dyes. The problem these days is that Anodizing dyes have UV protection so you just can't leave the controls in the sun for awhile to fade. I for one hate powder coating on "correct" restorations. It always seems to have that old Penthouse Magazine fog. Can't be touched up easily and is a bitch to remove if you ever have to or it gets in threaded areas. I only use powder coating on cylinders which has no relevence on the bikes we are talking about here. Eli

[elisent]

How did what I said turn into pregnant dog? I said powder coating is a Bi*ch to get off. That's a female dog. Pregnant implys future child support and an end to buying new/old toys. A self censoring discussion site. Can't even say Damn

[kp]

Chris, reanodizing can be done but you first need to strip the existing anodizing from your part. There are plenty of stories on the net devoted to anodizing but few talk about reanodizing. I found a good article by Ron Newman that gives an easily understood overview and he covers re anodizing. Here's the link
http://www.atmsite.org/contrib/Newman/anodize/
All you need now is an anodizer willing to do it. I was talking to Steve yesterday and seems the jury is still out. But like Eli I'm leaning towards anodize. Anyone got a 50+mate still working at Honda. KP   

[chrisnoel]

Yea. Like you said "I need to find an anodizer that will do it". The one I found said that they could strip it, but would only anodize my grade of aluminum "pot meteal is what he called it" if it was freshly cast.... not striped. I suppose Eli has the best soln.... Just paint em.

Eli. The info I found on the original powder coating of our bikes is that it was an enamel type powder. The new powder coats are something else.

[Steve Swan]

Check out "LINKS" - KP McGovern sent a very nice link on "how to" anodizing.