Honda CB750 Sandcast

Locked Engine

kp · 10 · 7352

kp

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Hi guys. I have a locked engine and have taken some advice off my local engine shop and others. My local engine shop states that aluminium pistons exposed to moisture and air expand and this is why the siezed condition. I've even purchased some specialty un-siezing product but all without success. I have absolutely no experience with a siezed motor and I certainly don't want to damage ANYTHING. AM will kill me. Tight motors and other things I've had some experience with, but methinks that I will need to do some damage to something to free the barrells from the pistons on this little gem. I've had the "magic solution" in the pots for several months so I don't think this is the answer.
I suspect the inevetible 20 ton pressing is to be the outcome but thought some of y'all may have a secret squirrell solution. I really don't want to damage the standard bore but if I must. KP  :-\
Yabba Dabba KP


736cc

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Dump ATF (or better yet, PB Blaster) in plug holes, wait a week, remove alternator cover (not points cover, the nut in center is weak) and rock alternator side center nut w/ an extended socket wrench.

Remove head and wack the pistons w/ a mallet.

If that fails, turn engine on its side then cut off barrels w/ a band saw, rods and all. U taught me that trick.
 :)
Or sell it on eBay....


Steve Swan

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Posted by Chris Rushton "Guest"

I have dismantled quite a number of seized engines now, and it is surprising how little rust it takes to cause the pistons to seize in the bores - but then again, the clearance really is very small.
Assuming the whole motor is to be stripped, first strip the top end and remove the cylinder head (you may have to "split" the cam chain to get the camshaft out as with a seized motor you are unlikely to be able to remove by normal means the two bolts securing the cam sprocket to the camshaft).
Then, remove all side covers, etc, turn the motor over and split the crankcases. You can then remove the big-end caps, which allows the barrels to be removed from the upper crankcase with the pistons/ conrods still in them. If you are lucky, you may find that not all the pistons are seized in the bores. For any that are, I have often found that a couple of "hits with a hammer (using a substantial piece of wood against the piston top) may get them moving. In the worst cases, I have then had to resort to the use of a power press. I have always managed to get all four pistons out by this process without wrecking the barrels, even the one that took over 8 tons before it started to move. Sometimes of course the bores have been rusted to such an extent as to be scrap, but no matter, it is the alloy casting which is important (the liners can easily be changed).

Good luck!


736cc

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...that sounds a little more eloquent than using a bandsaw.


kp

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Thanks for the response Chris. I wasn't wanting to go the press route but this may be the final option. I'll take your advice and dismantle the engine as it will need at the very least a set of rings. I found that the clutch was frozen, which is not uncommon with motors sitting for extended periods, and thought I had found the problem but this was not the case. This is an unrestored low mileage engine so I definately want to save all that I can. KP  :'(
Yabba Dabba KP


rhinoracer

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I've never done it to an aluminum engine but in iron truck engines some Coke (the soda, not the white powdery stuff) in the cylinders will free the pistons.


rickhahn

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I have used a product called YEILD in a spray can it is made a a company called CHEMSEARCH made in SYDNEY AUSTRALIA phone (02)6935077. It is excellent and has never failed in loosening all rusted and seized parts
Rick


Steve Swan

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Another method i know works from experience, use Aero Kroil penetrant spray - http://www.kanolabs.com/ - an old American product since the 1940's.

Best method, if engine is in bike, with chain, set on center stand, place in 5th gear. Spray Aero Kroil into each spark plug hole. Let sit for a week, then rock rear wheel back & forth spray again. Repeat this weekly cycle as necessary.

In addition, I also use tie down straps, attatched to the frame, through the rear wheel and tighten strap down, applying tension on the drive train, crank, pistons, etc.

I have freed engines grieveously exposed for years in the elements using this method.

Patience is the by word.

Since this is for KP, i would suggest using the CHEMSEARCH product available in OZ mentioned by Rick.


chrisnoel

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I was going to say hole saw the pistons and pins to spare the crank rods but removing the rods from the bottom souns like a gem. A total motor tear down is in order so you might as well give it a shot.

Probably isn't too much rust. If the bore is original you might save the sleves with a three or four over kit. Once loose from the rods working the pistons out shouldn't take long.


kp

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Hi all,
Thanks for the feedback. I ended up getting some of that Aero Kroil. As I currently have this bike in storage I'll put the Kroil into the pots and leave for a few months and see what occurs. The tie down strap idea sounds like a worthwile try. And you are right Chris, I will need to rebuild the motor in any case, just seems to be a buggar that I have to touch the most original K0 I've ever seen. Even has the original front tyre. Thanks KP   :)
Yabba Dabba KP