What happened to that question about fixing the rust spot on the bottom of the un-numbered pipe?

I was also wondering about restoring pipes. Mine are un-numbered but need work. All of mine have dents, Two of them have conciderable rust damage, and one of them is bent on the header end. Another is bent neer the foot rest support.

Is thier any one who can resurect such badly damaged pipes? I personaly think it would be worth more than the cost of a new set of HM-300's to restore an original set.

The bolts.... What ever type of #8 you have on the bolts is the type you should get for replacement of non original bolts. Basically all non-chrome bolts should be the 8 dull coating bolts.

The on/off controls = black on/off switch.

Seat = duck tail with seams that are not like later models.

Seat pan = no part #s.

Exhaust pipes = no #'s..... HM300's are acceptable for restoration.

Air Box.... flat sides.

The instruments should have a thin chrome lense bezel, domed plastic lenses, and a red zone at 9k. The drive gear "under the chrome bottom cover" for the sand cast tachometer is also sandcast.

Yea. Like you said "I need to find an anodizer that will do it". The one I found said that they could strip it, but would only anodize my grade of aluminum "pot meteal is what he called it" if it was freshly cast.... not striped. I suppose Eli has the best soln.... Just paint em.

Eli. The info I found on the original powder coating of our bikes is that it was an enamel type powder. The new powder coats are something else.

Are the left and right controls and master cylinder anodized? I took mine down to just the metal pieces and ran down to an anodize shop in Fort Collins Colorado. The manager calls me a few days later and says we can't anodize this grade of aluminum unless it is freshly cast. Once we strip it and try to re-anodize it the metal will pit and you wont be happy with the results..... Oh by the way this old coating on your pieces is paint not anodize..... You should just get these things powder coated or painted.

Is he full of poop? If so do you know someplace "preferably in N. Colorado that I can get them striped and anodized.

Thanks.

Don't wory. we won't laugh at your expense. Snicker. Snicker. I'm currently kicking myself in the A$$ for throwing my original rolled edge rim in a dumpster that has long since been emptied. If I wasn't afraid of prosecution for use of the dumpster I would be asking if I could be shown the landfill to rumage through. I even spent an hour pulling a regular rim off another 750 that was partially pinned under a semi trailer in the junk yard. How the heck was I to know that mis-matched cheapo looking rim was original? I didn't find out till a month or so later when the discussion of rolled edge rims came up on the SOHC4 site what I had done. I'm at the point now in my resto where I wan't to work on the wheels. I think the original one needed more than just re-chroming, but something would be better than nothing to work with. Oh well I just have to sit tight on my savings till one pops up.

I think that Australi got sandcast models that were # 6000 or higher. Maybee the wrinkle tank was being phased out by then.

How far between the steering head and the triangle brace should I secure the Ign. bracket. I don't want to clamp it down in the wrong location and mark the powder coat up with the wrong spot. The piece of frame I'm referring to is 7.5 inches long. Thanks.