Hi Andy, Thanks for the info on the chrome removal. I knew chrome could be stripped off steel but didn't know about alloy. I'll send these covers to the plater and get them stripped as I have original mission, alternator, sprocket and tappet covers to fit an early engine. Cheers KP

Landng007
Another interesting fact is that VIN plates were not on all production CB750s. Australian bikes didn't have VIN plates until 1972 so looks like Japan was also VINless for some period
KP

Hey Doug,
Thought someone should respond to your enquiry. I reckon any K0 to K6 towers and sprockets will fit straight up. Once the cover is in place who is going to ask. The K0, and I think K1 are pretty much all the same in any case. Sandcast stuff can always be the odd engine parts out but if you're stuck use what you can find
KP

Hi Guys,
I have another topic that I don't know the answer to. We know that Honda fitted different speedo and tacho drives to the early CB750s. The early type is generally known as the sandcast or non-bevel type, not because it was only fitted to sandcast 750s but because it has a sandcast finish and was a cast item. The other type is commonly known as the die-cast or bevel type. Can anyone shed some light on what is the correct speedo/tacho type for what VIN range.
My unmolested non-sandcast 750 KO, VIN 11970 is fitted with the sandcast type tacho and speedo drives. I can only assume that anything pre this VIN was fitted with sandcast type drives also, but as we all know, nothing can be assumed with the early production bikes.
Anyone know anything on this subject
KP 

Hi All,
Well fellas I've heard it all ........ I thought. Spare a thought for a fellow Sandcast enthusiast who has just been busted by the Greenland Police for owning a motorcycle and for owning parts off a motorcycle. Read the email I just received from a member from Norway.
Hello Kerry,
XXXXX had a K0 and a K0 motor confiscated by the Greenland police. and he is really angry at the police.
It seems you are not allowed to own motorcycles or even spareparts and even if it is for restoring only.
Maybe sandcast club can write him a e-mail expressing their support to him against the stupid law they have in Greeenland.
Guys this is just "bulla the shxx" Where do Governments get these dictatorial ideas from. Maybe Polar Bears are avid motorcycle buffs and to protect the species a law needed to be enacted. I stand f#+*ed
KP 

Hi Guys
I've been talking by email to Steve and he sent this web link which is a facinating, if not comprehensive, further read on the subject.
http://www.focuser.com/atm/anodize/anodize99.html.

Good to see you on tha case Eli and I would hope you keep us posted as I have a number of items that are in good order but faded to a clear colour, with black under and clear on top. Any reanodising would be a bonus to me albeit for only a few items.
As for powdercoat, it is one of several alternatives. I personally have found powdercoat a little on the thick side for some applications. Its main advantage is it's durability over a general paint application, however if one does use good product and can add a baking element to the process, durability is less of a problem as Chris R has indicated. Oh well, looks as if we'll have to await a solution.
On a different note, Eli mentioned Cad plating. Has anyone had any heat shields done by the Texas platers as yet. I've been waiting for some further info on this so any advances KP

Hi Eli. I'll get this on the correct topic yet. A not so common known fact, and contrary to popular blief, is that aluminium and water don't mix. What an amazing statement. Yeah ,,, it may not rust like steel but it don't like water either, as for most metals ... ferrous or otherwise. Have a look at those side cases after a few years to give anyone that message. Aluminium has a tendancy to "grow" and "oxidise" in the presence of oxygen (dur) and as we all know water has its fair share of O2. Why do we have engine lock up. Not because of rusty rings but expanded pistons. Vis a vis, brake fluid and water have a magnetic attraction. I might suggest that your brake cylinder casing/master cylinder casing has grown a smidgen and this is binding the piston or?. I am also the PROUD owner of a CBX (I hear boos and jeers) and had a similar problem to yours and despite MY best efforts to rectify the problem, it was a never ending story (or should I say a never ending binding story). I finally found out that a new set of brake pads that I had installed were a wee bit larger than the previous pads and the disc ridges were just a little outside the range of the new pads. Yibbida yibbida, I had the disc's machined and "end of problem".
But my friend, I ended up having a stainless sleeve fitted to the master cylinder and so far my problems have become non-problems. Hail stainless steel
Hope this gives you another angle Eli. KP 

Hey Chris. That's great feedback on the airboxes from yourself and Andy. I'm sure the rest of the members will find the information enlightning and interesting. Good to see some of this secret squirrell business being revealed at last. This is the sort of stuff you don't find in the current publications. Maybe you'd consider doing a piece for the "Technical" pages which would be a valuable contribution for reference to present and future members KP