Restoration of Sandcast #97

[markb]

Marcello,
Thanks for sharing that information.
Mark

[kmb69]

Dear Mark;

The pan oil cover is not painted on sandcast.

Marcello

This may be another "some were, some were not". Some of mine appear to be painted while other ones do not. I have not had time to see if a correlation exist to the SN/EN's.

I have also purchased some off eBay where some were painted and some appeared unpainted. The "paint" appears to be more of a clear coating versus the case paint.

Maybe Steve could consult Vic on his findings.

[Steve Swan]

E254 has no date markings on cases.

[markb]

Sorry I haven’t posted anything for the last month.  I’ve been busy but I managed to get a few things done.  I was working on my polishing and I found a guy who does great work.  He does the brushed look, just like I want it.  So I gave it to him to finish up so I could work on other things.  

The first thing I did was get the shift linkage area and drive sprocket reassembled.  The countershaft bearing holder was different on E100, it’s the one on the left.  You really have to make sure the small oil passages aren’t plugged up on this guy.  I soaked it in acetone three times and blew them out with compressed air until they came clean.


Here’s everything together.


I got stalled for a while because I couldn’t find the double spring washer.  I figured I would just buy a new one but they don’t exist anywhere anymore.  Fortunately I was able to locate mine.


E100 didn’t have a 16 tooth sprocket but I tracked down a nice replacement.


I didn’t install the oiler.  The hole in the shaft is plugged to disable it.  I have the NOS parts in case me or the next owner decides they want it to be that correct.

[markb]

On to the pistons.


I had sets that had different numbers on them (2, 3, 5).  These from an early sandcast have 2’s.  


I’ve never had much luck installing the cylinders by pushing the rings in with my fingers.  Seems like every time I do it that way I always hear a click on the last push and have to pull the cylinders off to make sure I didn’t break a ring.  One time I did.  I’ve used hose clamps too and they just barely cover the rings and are a little touchy so for me they just work OK.  So I made up a set of ring compressors.  It’s just an improvement on the hose clamp idea which I have done before too.


Here’s one of the compressors in place.  I snug up the hose clamp and back it off one turn and they slide perfectly.


Ready to drop the jugs on.  By the way, those are all new stock studs.  I was thinking of using APE's but decided to stay with correct parts.

[markb]

Now for the cylinders.  The first thing I do is put some spacers under the center pistons to hold them straight.


Here I’m ready to slide the cylinders over the pistons.


And here’s the cylinders in place.  The compressors worked pretty well.  It’s a little tedious getting them out before you go the last inch.  But for me no worse than trying to coax the rings in with your fingers.  The only downside was the outside diameter of the ring halves was a little small so I had to be careful not to let them slip into the cases.  If I were to do it over I would definitely make them bigger.  Other than that the cylinders went on real smooooth.


After that it didn’t take long to get the head on and torqued down.  As you all know torque the 8mm nuts (in correct order) before the 6mm screws.  I’ll let them sit a week or two and then break them loose and retighten.


One interesting note here.  Sandcast engines up to 1106 have the special 6mm cross hex flange screw at the rear of the head as well as the four under the cam towers.  After 1106 the rear one is changed to a hex head.  E100 came with special “8” flange hex heads so even though that’s not what the parts book says, that’s what I’m putting back.


So that pretty much catches me up with my posts for now.  Not much for the last month or so but at least it’s coming along.

[UK Pete]

Good work mark, my engine is at a similar stage, i am getting inspiration from your posts, hopefully i will resume work on mine soon
pete

[markb]

I’m not going to be able to get much further until my polishing is done so I’m finally ready to get everything clear coated.  I had someone help me out with a lot of it.  I still had to dial it back a bit with the gray Scotchbrite.  I’m going to have it clear coated in two batches (engine covers and frame parts).  It’s easier for my painter that way.

I tried something new this time.  I screwed all the parts onto pieces of wood.  That way I can finish them up and clean them and they can be handled without touching them.  I think that will make it easier for the painter too.  Also I like to mask the areas that aren’t normally coated.  For the clutch cover I just used a beat up old adjustment cover.

[UK Pete]

I like that idea screwing them to the wood, all these great tips , loving all the pictures of your work mark, great stuff
pete

[kmb69]

Mark,

Are those ring compressor halves made from aluminum or stainless?

Keith

[markb]

Keith,
I made them out of aluminum because that's what I had available for material, it's easy to machine and I figured it would be easier on the pistons.  If I were to do them over I would make the OD larger so they wouldn't be able to drop into the cases.

[markb]

I’ve been pretty busy but I was able to reach a major milestone.  I finally have all my polishing and clear coating done!  I really wanted to finish the whole bike by summer (I’m starting to realize it’s not going to happen) but for sure I wanted this done.  This will make it easier to work on a little bit here and there.  I even threw in a couple of extra parts.  

[Sam]

Looking great Mark!

What did you use for the clear coat? Duplicolor engine paint?

[markb]

I used Eastwood's Gloss Diamond Clear in the quart can and let my painter shoot it.  I've had real good luck with it.  Never tried the spray can.  Here's a link:
http://www.eastwood.com/diamond-clear-gloss-set.html

[markb]

I know I’ve been gone for a while but my summer is over and I’m slowly getting going again.  The hardest part is trying to remember where I left off.  One of the last things I was working on the engine was torqueing the head nuts.  It was about that time that I saw some posts about the copper washers on the outside rear head nuts to help prevent oil leaks.  They're circled in the picture.

I’m ready to retorque them and in the interest of keeping things “original” I’m wondering if I can get by with using a thread sealer on the washer and threads.  I looked it over and I guess I’m not sure where it will prevent the oil from going to.  Any thoughts?